A small but deadly tank - The Hetzer
May 27, 2007

One of the two current projects - The Hetzer
The Eduard kit is very complete, including a complete interior.
In this first photo you can see the engine bay still in the
beginning of the build.
The kit is made of light cream plastic with "some" flash.
However the detail is very good and the interior is complete.
At first glance and due to the light color of the plastic, it
seems that the detail is to soft. It is not, and in fact it's a
very good kit with excellent detail and very good parts fit.
The building started with the lower hull of course. Plenty of
detail in here. Probably the time spent on the build will be 80%
on the interior and 20% on the exterior.
In here you can see the first assembly steps of the lower hull.
The engine was assembled separately and painted. In this shot
you can see the testing phase with the engine in place.
Weathering of the engine (greasy spots, rust...) can be done
before building the engine bay. Just this part of the kit will
take several hours to complete. In the end no one will see it.
What a shame...
The next phase is painting the engine bay and front lower hull.
Painting the interior
Painting done. Airbrush in hand with the help of Tamiya masking
tape and the interior of the hull is done.
The base color is Ivory white and engine bay and crew
compartment floor are in Field grey.
This color is in fact more green than grey but I've made my
"special" mix and it was sprayed with my Iwata Eclipse.
Now the details. There are plenty of them....
The crew compartment has a lot of details. The ammo rack in in
photo etch and it was my first try of soldering PE. I have to
say that the results are very satisfying. The somewhat soft
metal gains considerable strength when soldered. Is possible
I'll avoid CA in the future
From reference photos I decided to paint the driver seat in wood
and the ammo in brass and grey.
The ammo was painted with Vallejo Model Color brass (airbrushed)
and it looks almost as real metal.
More detail inside. I had to scratch build a part that was
missing. And there are two similar sprues on the kit without the
part!!! talk about bad luck. They must have been ripped off
from the sprue on the packaging process. It's a heavy part
connected just by one injection point and there must be a lot of
these parts hanging around on the floor at the Eduard factory.
Luckily it's not that visible and has a very simple shape.
All the bits and pieces on the inside are in place. I'm not
doing much more detail because this will be closed and can't be
seen after assembly. I have to stop somewhere (lol)
The tracks
After trying individual link after market tracks on the Bradley
and the Merkava it's difficult to go back to vinyl tracks or
even to link and length tracks included in some kits. This kit
comes with the second type but they show a lot of flash and the
detail is a bit soft. I'd read it on a review and to be safe I
ordered a set of Modelkasten tracks (the reference in after
market individual link tracks).
What I didn't know was how tiny each link was, and they are
really tiny. Well, I had to make them and as usual it's a long
and tedious task.
They are now complete and ready to paint but
after assembling two tracks with 96 links each I need a rest.
The Modelkasten set has a few links to spare that can be used to
make the set of links that will be mounted on the back of the
tank.
Soldering Photo Ecth parts
In the meantime some other tasks need to be done. One of them is
the preparation of PE parts included in the kit. This particular
version includes a lot of parts on two frets.

My first try with soldering was the ammo rack that goes inside
the crew compartment, and it was a tricky job. Not because of
the solder itself, but because the parts are very small and it's
kind of difficult to hold them properly.
This time I tried some bigger parts - the toolbox that goes over
the left rear fender and the two front fenders.
They are made of two major parts and if done properly they look
incredibly realistic. Eduard included the plastic pieces, but if
you can use the PE parts do it.
Soldering the first one was a real ordeal. I just didn't know
how to hold the parts and you fingers have to be out of the way.
Those things get hot. The second one was done in a couple of
minutes.
What you see on the picture looks a little rough but that's due
to the need of sanding the excess solder and the
brass underneath starts to show. Anyway, when it's painted
it'll look really good. Wait and see
After a long hiatus I managed to make the final touches for
painting.
My first camouflage and not an easy one. At this scale it's way
more difficult than painting a 1/10 Rc car body.
This scheme has 3 colors. Base Yellow, Green and a Brown line
around the green patches. It has to be thin and the overspray
has to be very small. After all it should look like a 1/35 scale
tank.
It took me about 3 hours to do it. Some retouching and fiddling
with the paint, but the result is quite good.
I used my faithful Iwata airbrush to do the job at a very low
pressure (10-12 psi) with the paint slightly thinned with water.
Enough for it not to run and to make fine lines.
Weathering with pigments and some paint chipping will follow
soon for giving it the realistic look that's still lacking.
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Photos taken with Canon EOS D60
and Canon Speedlite 380Z
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With a kit like this I think it's nice to make some sort of a
display base. And for this I bought an Alpine Miniatures Waffen
SS Panzer Commander. It's very difficult to beat the quality of
Alpine, and it's also incredibly difficult to paint these
figures in order to make justice to the sculptor.
I tried. You judge my efforts with these Work In Progress
Pictures.
The camouflaged smock was painted with Lifecolor paints (German
Uniforms set) and I add that they are excellent. The pants with
Tamiya Field Green toned down with a little Light Grey.
The face was painted with oils and the cap with Tamiya field
green and a huge amount of patience.
Hope you like it. I enhanced the color a little bit to show the
effect of oil shading on the pants and face.
The uniform was retouched. The green spots were made with a
sharp toothpick immersed on the color an applied over the base
colors.
The face was painted with oils over a base of acrylic Vallejo
Flesh color.
Putting dirt on a model that took hours and hours to build may
seem crazy. When I started to see examples around the Net I was
surprised. In some cases pleasantly surprised but in other cases
I was horrified.
Some models displayed atrocious wear and mud enough to put the
tank on a junkyard.
I decided to do things lightly. Credible but not enough to
destroy all the detail of painting.
This technique resulted very well on the Merkava and looks good
on the Hetzer.
After painting, a coat of gloss varnish is applied as a base for
the decals. After applying the decals and after making sure that
the dreaded silvering effect is not present, another cot of
gloss is applied to seal everything.
Then, a wash of oils (mainly raw umber and black) applied with
turpentine to highlight the details and recesses, and in this
case another premiere for me - small dots of oil painting to
produce streaks caused by rust and water. The dots are pushed
down with a flat brush and they produce those rust streaks that
normally start on points where paint doesn't get. Bracket
welding, intricate recesses etc.
On top of it all a light coat of pigments with turpentine to
simulate those places where the dust tends to accumulate.
I used MIG pigments for the dust and also for the rust on the
exhaust. This is probably one of the things I found most
difficult. Producing a rust effect is quite complicated. Very
easy to look exaggerated, but very difficult to give the right
impression.

What was used in this kit
Eduard Hetzer Mid Version
Modelkasten workable tracks
Vallejo Acrylicos
and Xtracrylics
Paints
Iwata CS Airbrush
Armorscale MG37 Barrel
Eduard Side Skirts
Photos taken with Canon Powershot S80 and EOS 60D
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