Plastic Garden » RC Boats

Octura Catalog

antoniop — Tue, 11 Jul 2006 21:22:00 +0000

Have you ever tried to choose anything from the Octura Catalog? I did, and I must tell you that my choices were very difficult to make. What’s included in the packages, what parts are needed, how do you match prop shaft and flex cable, etc.
HTML is perfect for this kind of application. Go forward and backwards with the click of a mouse. I’ve tried to do that with this page.
The information included here is strictly for non profitable use (in fact it is a good service to Octura) and to help people figure out what choices they need for their boats. The information is provided as is, and if you need to order something you should do it by the proper channels (Octura or any other reseller that carries the Octura range). There are still some links not finished, but the work is being done as time allows.

How was it done
If you have Internet Explorer 4.0 the drawings of some parts is available by pressing . This could work with the latest versions of the Netscape browsers, but I didn’t check. I apologize for the inconvenience.

Bear in mind that OCTURA is a Registered Trademark of Octura Models, Inc., Skokie, Illinois, USA. and I’m on no way affiliated with the company. This catalog is a way you can use to know the range of OCTURA’s excellent products.

Propeller Range & Basic Propeller Recomendations
	STRUT / RUDDER & STRUDDER PACKAGES	FLEX HEX FOR CONNECTING SQUARED END FLEX CABLE to threaded motor output shaft
	SEPARATE STRUT PACKAGES FOR SMALLER BOATS	24"PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS WITH ONE SQUARED END
	SEPARATE WEDGE RUDDER ASSEMBLIES	18" PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS WITH ONE SQUARED END
	PROP SHAFTS	36"PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS WITH BOTH ENDS SQUARED
	PROP TAIL NUTS	24" PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS
	THRUST WASHERS	24" PRECUT TEFLON TUBING
	DRIVE DOGS	BULK FLEXIBLE CABLE AND FLEXIBLE TEFLON TUBING IN 20′ PACKAGES
	BALL THRUST BEARINGS	FLEX FERRULE – FOR CONNECTING FLEXIBLE SHAFT TO PROPELLER SHAFT (IN BRASS)
	NOSE PIECES	FLEX HEX FOR COUPLING FLEXIBLE SHAFT TO ENGINE CRANKSHAFT
	LEAD TEFLON SLEEVE BEARINGS	FLEX HEX FOR COUPLING FLEXIBLE SHAFT TO ELECTRIC MOTOR
	REDUCER BUSHINGS	MOTOR MOUNTS
	NEEDLE BEARINGS	TWIN 60 MOTOR MOUNTS
	STRUT BLADES AVAILABLE SEPARATELY	MOTOR MOUNT PARTS ORDERED SEPARATELY
	BRACKETS	SCREWS / NUTS / BOLTS
	STRUDDER BRACKETS	HEX WRENCHES
	WEDGE RUDDER ASSEMBLIES	WATER PICK-UPS & OUTLETS
	WEDGE RUDDER BLADES ONLY – extruded aluminum	TEFLON TUBING
	MISCELLANEOUS	STARTER BELTS
	PROP BALANCERS	EXHAUST COUPLING
		SHAFT C0LLARS
		ADAPTERS
		BEARING EXTENDERS
		TILLER ARMS
		MISCELLEANOUS
		FINS

How was it done

The entire catalog was scanned with an HP Scanjet 5p and OCR(ed) with OmniPage Limited Edition. The result (in Microsoft Word) was converted to Excel and transformed in table format. Again, it was converted to HTML by Front Page, spell checked and corrected.

OCTURA is a Registered Trademark of Octura Models, Inc., Skokie, Illinois, USA.

STRUT / RUDDER & STRUDDER PACKAGES THE FOLLOWING STRUDDER AND STRUT/RUDDER PACKAGES ARE ABOUT 90% COMPLETE. THEY COME WITH PROP SHAFTS, FLEX CABLES, TEFLON TUBING, DRIVE DOG, TAIL NUT, THRUST WASHERS, RUDDER ASSEMBLY, FERRULE (IN SOME PACKAGES), MOUNTING BRACKET (WITH NECESSARY MOUNTING SCREWS) AND STRUT BLADE WITH SLEEVE BEARINGS INSTALLED. (THE CABLE AND THE FLEX FERRULE AND/OR PROP SHAFT ARE NOT JOINED) YOU WILL NEED A PROPELLER AND POSSIBLY A FLEX HEX. PLEASE TIGHTEN ALL SET SCREWS (WE RECOMMEND ONCE THE LOCATION HAS BEEN DETERMINED FOR THE SET SCREWS, TIGHTEN THEM DOWN ENOUGH TO MAKE A MARK ON THE SHAFT. LOOSEN THE SET SCREW AND FILE A SMALL FLAT WHERE THE SET SCREW LEFT A MARK ON THE SHAFT. THIS GIVES THE SET SCREW A FLAT SPOT TO SIT ON. DON’T GET OVER ZEALOUS AND FILE A GREAT BIG FLAT SPOT THAT WILL ONLY WEAKEN THE SHAFT.) PLEASE TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS ONCE THE PROPER DEPTH/ANGLES HAVE BEEN DETERMINED.
STRUDDER PACKAGE 93	this strudder package is designed for 22-3Occ gas engines installed in deep vees. This strudder allows the cable to be brought out the back of the boat (surfacing application),instead of the bottom. It comes with the OC8SBE strut blade (which has a 45 degree back sweep) with 2 – OC10RB916 reducers and 4 – OC8LTS lead teflon sleeve bearings installed, 1/4"dia prop shaft with OC8DT tapered drive dog and tail nut (OC8PNM) OCFSF916 flex ferrule. OC8TW thrust washers and offset rudder (with water pick up hole extruded directly into the rudder blade), all mounted in the back hole of our standard extruded aluminum mounting bracket. Comes with 21 of 1/4"(.250) flex cable (std. left lay) with one end squared and 21 of teflon tubing (SEE ILLUSTRATION) (note : flex ferrule and flex cable are not joined together) THIS PACKAGE IS DESIGNED WITH THE SERIOUS RACER IN MIND – THE OFFSET RUDDER MAKES THE BOAT VERY MANEUVERABLE ON A RACE COURSE – MAKING RIGHT HAND TURNS IS WHAT THIS STRUDDER IS DESIGNED FOR	83.95
STRUDDER PACKAGE 93C	same as above but with a cast aluminum mounting bracket pulling the assembly in 2" closer to the stern of the boat	T.B.A.
OC8STR-Q	strudder package is designed for 22 – 3Occ gas engines (if the assembly is installed in a deep vee, the cable would be brought out the bottom of the boat for a submerged propeller application) This package comes complete with large rudder assembly with a larger pivot bracket than standard strudder (which allows installation of large 1/4"bore propellers while keeping the rudder in line),large stainless steel strut blade with 2 – OC8LTS lead teflon sleeve bearings) and 2 – OC10RB (reducer bushings) installed, 1 – OC8PS (1/4" dia. prop shaft with drive dog and tail nut) and OC8TW (thrust washers) on standard extruded aluminum mounting bracket with OCFSF2525 (flex ferrule) and 21" of 1/4" (.250) dia. flex cable with one end squared and 21" of teflon tubing (SEE ILLUSTRATION ) (note : ferrule and cable are not joined together)	78.95
OC8STR-C	strudder package same as above except the flex cable does not have a squared end -	78.95
PACKAGE 94SS	package is similar the the standard PACKAGE 94 but it comes with a 1/4"prop shaft and 1/4" flex cable. It also includes the SSSLBO (large stainless steel strut blade) with 2 – OC8LTS (sleeve bearings) and 2 – OC10RB (reducer bushings) installed, the OC8PS (1/4"prop shaft, drive dog and tailnut), OCFSF2525 (flex ferrule) and 21 .250 flex cable and- matching tubing. This package also comes with the OC6WRL large wedge rudder assembly. This package would be used with 22 – 30cc gas engines in hulls where a separate strut and rudder is desired (such as a hydro) -	76.95
STRUDDER PACKAGE ’92	This package is designed for use with .60 to .80 nitro engines and comes complete with STRUDDER M, with 2 – OC6LTS (sleeve bearings) & 2 – OC8RB (reducers), 1 – OC6PSM (3/16" dia. prop shaft with drive dog), 1 – OC6TWM (thrust washers), 1 – OC6PNM (prop tail nut), 1 – OCF5F1818 (flex ferrule),and 21 of 3/16" (.187) dia. flex cable and 21 of matching teflon tubing. (ferrule and cable are not joined together)	49.95
STRUDDER PACKAGE ’92Q	same as above but with OC6SQL-24A (.187 cable with one end squared)	52.95
STRUDDER PACKAGE ’92B	this package is similar to the package 92 but this one has a 7.5 degree angle on the mounting bracket	50.95
STRUDDER PACKAGE ’92C	this package is similar to the package 92 but the rudder is offset to one side on two stainless steel rods	54.65
STRUDDER PACKAGE ’92D	this package is similar to the package 92C with the offset rudder but it also comes with the 7.5 degree angle mounting bracket	55.65
PACKAGE 94	this package is designed for .60 – .80 nitro engines with hulls where a separate strut and rudder is preferred (such as a hydro) this package comes with a 3/16" prop shaft and 3/16" flex cable strut and rudder. It comes with the DVMAS – profiled strut blade with mounting bracket, 2 – OC6LTS (sleeve bearings) and 2 – OC8RB (reducer bushing) installed, OC6PS (3/16" prop shaft with drive dog), OC6TW (thrust washers), OC6PNM (prop tail nut) and 21 .187 flex cable and matching teflon tubing and the OCFSF1818 (flex ferrule). This package also has the OC6WRL large wedge rudder assembly with the new rudder blade with the sole extruded directly into it and uniquely machines at the top so the water pick up flow is not restricted	54.95
PACKAGE 97S	this strut and rudder package is designed for use with .40 nitro engines. It comes complete with the OC6SB40 (cast strut blade with sleeve bearings) OC6SBBR40 (cast aluminum mounting bracket), OC6PSM (prop shaft with drive dog), OC6TWM (thrust washer set), OC6PNM (prop tail nut), OCFSF616 (flex ferrule) and OC187L-24B (24" .187 left lay flex cable and matching teflon tubing) and also the OC6WR40 (aluminum wedge rudder assembly with mounting bracket)	73.95
STRUDDER PACKAGE 97	this strudder package is designed for .40 nitro engines and comes complete with strut and rudder on a single mounting bracket, .187 flex cable and matching teflon tubing	T.B.A.
OC6STR-150	STRUDDER ASSEMBLY with OC4WRMC (rudder assembly), OC4STBR (strudder bracket), with the OC6SBEPA-150 (strut blade with sleeve bearings and nose piece installed), OC6DMN (drive dog), OC6150PS (3/16" prop shaft with retaining nut), washer and 18"of .150 flex cable (standard left lay) and 18" teflon tubing. (OC6150PS and cable are not joined)-can be used with geared electrics and .21 nitro engines (beryllium copper)	56.95
OC6STR-150A	STRUDDER ASSEMBLY same as above but in aluminum	56.95
PACKAGE 96-15	package includes OC6SBCOML-150 strut assembly and the OC4WRM wedge rudder assembly – designed for use with .21 nitro engines and geared electrics – for use on hulls where separate strut and rudder is preferred (beryllium copper)	66.75
PACKAGE 96-15A	same package as above but in aluminum	66.75
OC6STR-130	STRUDDER ASSEMBLY with OC4WRMC (rudder assembly), OC4STBR (strudder bracket), with the OC6SBEPA-130 (strut blade with sleeve bearings and nose piece installed), OC6DMM (drive dog), OC6130PS (3/16" prop shaft with retaining nut), washer and 18"of .130 flex cable (standard left lay) and 18" teflon tubing (OC6130PS and cable are not joined) can be used with geared electics – (beryllium copper)	56.95
OC6STR-130A	STRUDDDER ASSEMBLY same as above but in aluminum	56.95
PACKAGE 96-13	package includes OC6SBCOML-130 strut assembly and the OC4WRM wedge rudder assembly – designed for used with geared electrics – for use on hulls where separate strut and rudder is preferred (beryllium copper)	66.75
PACKAGE 96-13A	same package as above but in aluminum	66.75
OC6STR-64	STRUDDER ASSEMBLY similiar to the OC6STR-130 (listed above) but with a .187 prop shaft counted bored for the .130 flex cable, but the prop shaft is stepped done to .125 – it come with the OC4D (drive dog), OC4PN (prop nutt) and an .125 ID washer. This strudder is designed to be used on .10 – .15 engines wnich need a stronger .130 cable but will still accommodate a .125 bore propeller. (beryllium copper)	58.95
OC6STR-64A	STRUDDER ASSEMBLY same as above but in aluminum	58.95
PACKAGE 96-64	STRUT AND RUDDER PACKAGE FOR .10-.15 nitro boat where a separate strut and rudder is desir6d-comes with OC6SBCOML-64 strut package and OC4WRM wedge rudder assembly (beryllium copper)	68.75
OC4STR-C	STRUDDER ASSEMBLY with OC4WBE (wedge blade), OC4PIBR (pivot bracket), OC4PISH (pivot shaft), OC4SBEPA (strut blade with sleeve bearings and nose piece installed), OC4D (drive dog), OC4PS (1/8"prop shaft), OC4PN (prop tail nut), OC4STBR (strudder bracket) and a washer with 18".098 flex cable standard left lay) and 18"teflon tubing (OC4PS and cable not joined) (SEE ILLUSTRATION )	53.95
PACKAGE 95	package includes OC4SBCOML strut assembly (with .125 prop shaft and .098 cable) and OC4WR wedge rudder assembly- ideal for direct drive electric hull where a separate strut and rudder is preferred (beryllium copper)	62.35
PACKAGE 95A	same as above but in aluminum	62.35
SEPARATE STRUT PACKAGES FOR SMALLER BOATS all of the hardware listed below is available in beryllium copper or aluminum. While the price is the same between the aluminum and the beryllium copper, the aluminum is lighter but the beryllium copper is stronger. Beryllium copper will be shipped unless aluminum is specified.
OC6SBCOML-150	STRUT ASSEMBLY-designed for use with .21 nitro engines or geared electrics- it comes with OC6SBE (strut blade) with 2 – OC6LTS (sleeve bearings), OC61SONP (nose piece), OC6150PS (prop shaft), OC6DMM (drive dog), OC4SBBR (mounting bracket), a washer, retaining nut and a 4/40 socket head wrench (for the drive dog set screw) with 18"of .150 flexible cable (standard left lay) and 18"of .150 teflon tubing (OC6150PS and cable not joined)	31.95
OC6SBCOML-130	STRUT ASSEMBLY – designed to be used with geared electrics -the assembly comes with OC6SBE (strut blade) with 2 – OC6LTS (sleeve bearings), OC613ONP (nose piece), OC6130PS (prop shaft), OC6DMM (drive dog), OC4SBBR (mounting bracket), a washer, a retaining nut and a 4/40 socket head wrench (for the drive dog set screw) with 18"of .130 flexible cable (standard left lay) and 18"of .130 teflon tubing (OC6130PS and cable not joined)	31.95
OC6SBCOML-64	STRUT ASSEMBLY – design for use with .10 – .15 nitro engines, this strut assembly comes with a strut blade (OC6SBE) with sleeve bearings (OC6LTS) and nose piece (OC613ONP) installed, mounting bracket (OC4SBBR), and a stepped 3/16";@18"prop shaft (which is counter bored for a .130 flex cable), drive dog (OC4D), prop tail nut (OC4PN), a washer and 18" .130 flex cable and matching teflon tubing. It has the strength of a .130 flex cable but the stepped prop shaft allows the use of 1/8"bore propellers which is what most .10 – .15 engines can swing. (cable and prop shaft are not joined)	33.95
OC4SBCOML	STRUT ASSEMBLY – same as above but with 18"of .098 flexible cable (standard left lay)and 18"of .098 teflon tubing (OC4PS and cable not joined)	31.95
OC4SBCOMR	STRUT ASSEMBLY – same as above but with right lay flexible cable	31.95
SEPARATE WEDGE RUDDER ASSEMBLIES
OC4WR	WEDGE RUDDER ASSEMBLY with an OC4WBE (cast wedge rudder blade), OC4PIBR (pivot bracket), OC4PISH (pivot shaft) and OC4SBBR (mounting bracket) (SEE ILLUSTRATION ) beryllium copper -for use with direct drive electrics or smaller nitro hulls	30.45
OC4WRM	WEDGE RUDDER ASSEMBLY with a cast rudder bladelpivot bracket assembly 25% larger than the OC4WR. This rudder is can be used on direct drive electric, geared electrics or .15 – .21 nitro engines. Comes with two sided (push/pull) tiller arm and OC4SBBR (mounting bracket). (beryllium copper)	34.95
OC6WR40	cast aluminum wedge rudder, pivot bracket and mounting bracket, pivot shaft, and the necessary sleeve bearings and washers and nuts and bolts all assembled. (Please note- this blade is cast so you will need a separate water pick up.)(See illustration)	37.95
OC6WRL	LARGE WEDGE RUDDER complete assembly consists of an aluminum stern mounting bracket, rudder blade with water tube extrudes up the back of the blade with a water pick up machined in the side of the rudder blade, 2 nylon tiller arms, rudder pivot shaft, bearings & four t-nuts & bolts for mounting (rudder blade measure 3 1/2" from underside of tilyer arm to the bottom of the blade)(water pick up is available machined on the right or the left side, if you have a preference please let us know when ordering) This rudder will work with -60 nitros and larger. (extruded aluminum mounting bracket is 1 3/4" high by 1 1/4"wide)	12.95
OC6WRL2	LARGE WEDGE RUDDER complete assembly consists of an cast aluminum stern mounting bracket with an extruded aluminum pivot bracket (this puts the leading edge of the rudder blade approx. 2 inches from the stern of the boat), wedge rudder blade with water tube extruded up the back.of the blade, and a pick up machined at the lower edge, 2-nylon tiller arms, rudder Pivot shaft, bearings and four t-nuts & bolts for mounting. (rudder blade measures 3 1/2" from underside of tiller arms to the bottom of the blade) (see illustration)	33.50
	PLEASE NOTE STRUTS AND STRUDDERS LISTED BELOW DO NOT NORMALLY COME WITH BEARINGS INSTALLED – HERE ARE THE RECOMMENDED INSTALLATIONS (BEARINGS, REDUCERS, ETC. ARE LISTED ON PAGE FOR 3/16" DIA. PROP SHAFT AND .187 FLEX CABLE JOINED WITH .187 -.187 FERRULE USE ONE OF THE FOLLOWING:
	2 NEEDLE BEARINGS (OC6NE) or
	2 SLEEVE BEARINGS (OC6LTS) with 2 REDUCERS (OCSRB) or
	1 NEEDLE BEARING (OC6NE) with 1 SLEEVE BEARING (OC6LTS) & 1 REDUCER (OC8RB) FOR 3/16" DIA. PROP SHAFT AND .250 FLEX CABLE JOINED WITH .250 -.187 FERRULE USE THE SAME AS ABOVE.
	FOR 1/4 DIA PROP SHAFT AND .250 FLEX CABLE JOINED WITH.250-.250 FERRULE USE THE FOLLOWING:
	2 SLEEVE BEARINGS (OC8LTS) with 2 REDUCERS (OC1ORB) FOR USE WITH .187 DIA. FLEX CABLE WITH ATTACHED 3/16" PROP SHAFT (PRESOLDERED PROP SHAFT/ CABLE NOT AVAILABLE FROM OCTURA)
	1 NOSE PIECE (OC8NP), 2 SLEEVE BEARINGS (OC6LTS) and 1 REDUCER (OC8RB) or
	1 NOSE PIECE (OC8NP), 1 SLEEVE BEARING (OC6LTS) and 1 NEEDLE BEARING (OC6RE)
DVAS	DEEP VEE ADJUSTABLE STRUT. Stern or through hull mounting. From lower edge of bracket to center of prop shaft: 2 3/16" maximum – 1 3/16" minimum. Consists of OC6SBBR (cast aluminum mounting bracket 1 1/4" wide 2"long), DVBO strut blade (extruded aluminum)bored 11/32",10-32 bolt/lock nut and 4 6-32 t-nuts/bolts for mounting -	18.95
DVMAS	DEEP VEE M ADJUSTABLE STRUT. Same as above but with DVMBO strut blade machine profiled to streamline shape – bored 11/32	19.95
SDAS	SURFACE DRIVE ADJUSTABLE STRUT. Flat bottom strut for stern or through hull mounting. From lower edge of mounting bracket to center of prop shaft:l 518"maximum – 518"minimum. Consists of OC6SBBR (cast aluminum mounting bracket), SDBO flat bottom strut blade bored 11/32",10,-32 bolt/lock nut and four 6-32 t-nuts & bolts for mounting	19.95
STRUDM	STRUDDER M. Complete strut/rudder assembly, one mounting bracket with directly behind strut. Consists of support bracket, wedge rudder,water pick up tube,2 nylon tiller arms (TA-2),rudder pivot bracket,pivot shaft & rudder pivot bearings, 4 T nuts & screws and shaft support (strut) blade machine profiled to streamlined shape (DVMBO) bored 11/32	27.95
STRUD75	STRUDDER 7.5 M. Same as above but with 7.5 degree angle on mounting bracket	28.95
STRUD2D	TWIN DRIVE STRUDDER M. Same features as strudder but for twin drive applications. Consists of two support brackets complete with strut blades with wedge rudder assembly centered between on stainless steel rods (SEE ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 24)	49.95
STRUD2D7	TWIN DRIVE STRUDDER 7.5 M. Same as above but with 7.5 degree angle	50.95
STRUD2R	TWIN RUDDER STRUDDER M. similar to strudder but with twin rudders. Consists of one support bracket with strut blade centered(on stainless steel rods) between two wedge rudder assemblies (SEE ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 24)	42.95
STRUDOFF	OFFSET STRUDDER M. Similar to strudder but with rudder offset. Consists of support bracket with strut blade, with stainless steel rods supporting rudder assembly off center (SEE ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 24)	31.95
STRUDOF7	OFFSET STRUDDER 7.5 M. Same as above but with 7.5 degree angle	32.95
PROP SHAFTS
OC4PS	STAINLESS STEEL PROP STUB SHAFT 1/8" O.D. counter bored for .098cable, 5/16" dee with the opposite end threaded 5-40 , 2" overall length	2.59
OC6130PS	STAINLESS STEEL PROP STUB SHAFT 3/16" dia., counter bored .130, 1/2"deep with opposite end threaded 10-32, 2 1/4"overall length, with retaining nut	3.00
OC6150PS	STAINLESS STEEL PROP STUB SHAFT 3/16" dia., counter bored .150, 1/2"deep with opposite end threaded 10-32, 2 1/4"overall length, with retaining nut	3.00
OC6PS	3/16" DIAMETER PROP STUB SHAFT WITH OC6D (7/16" O.D.drive dog), 3 1/4"long, 10-32 thread. Do NOT use with needle bearings	3.65
OC6PSM	PROP STUB SHAFT WITH OC6DM (3/8"O.D. drive dog)(same shaft as above) -	3.65
OC6PSL	3/16" DIAMETER PROP STUB SHAFT WITH OC6D (7/16.’0.D.drive dog), 4 1/4"long, 10-32 thread. Do NOT use with needle bearings. Designed to be used with cast stainless steel or cast aluminum strut blades listed on page 6.Flats already filed for drive dog and flex ferrule set screws	5.25
OC6PSH	3/161. DIAMETER UNTHREADED HARDENED PROP STUB SHAFT WITH OC6D (7/16"O.D. drive dog) 3 1/2"long for use with needle bearings -	6.50
OC6PSEM	UNTHREADED HARDENED PROP STUB SHAFT WITH OC6DM (3/8" O.D. drive dog) same shaft as above	6.50
OC68PS	STEPPED PROP SHAFT – This prop shaft is designed to be used with 1/4"sleeve bearings, but it is stepped down to 3/16" at the propeller end. It comes with thrust washers (OC6TW), prop nut (OC6PNM) and drive dog (OC6D)	9.95
OCSPSH	1/4" DIAMETER UNTHREADED HARDENED PROP STUB SHAFT WITH OC8D (drive dog), 4" long and OC8PNU (prop nut)	10.95
OCAPS	1/4" DIAMETER PROP STUB SHAFT with OC8D (drive dog) and OC8PNM (prop tail nut), 4 112"long with flats filed for drive dog and flex ferrule, long enough to be used with any of the cast strut blades listed on page 6 on sleeve bearings (Do not use with needle bearings)	9.50
PROP TAIL NUTS
OC4PN	STREAMLINED PROP TAIL NUT, fits 5-40 thread on an 1/8"(.125) dia. shaft, 7/32 hex, 9/16" long, brass	1.85
OC6PNMK	STREAMLINED PROP TAIL NUT,fits 10-32 thread on a 3/16"(.187)dia. shaft, 5/16" dia., 5/8 "long, 1/4 flats, brass (this is a good size to match the hubs on our pro from approx. 37mm-42mm – .21 nitro engine size)	1.555
OC6PNM	STREAMLINED PROP TAIL NUT, fits 10-32 thread on a 3/16"(.187)dia. shaft, 3/8"dia., 3/4 "long, 5/16 flats, hardened plated steel	2.35
OC6PN	STREAMLINED PROP TAIL NUT, fits 10-32 thread on a 3/16"(.187) dia. shaft, 7/16" dia., 13/16" long, 3/8"flats, hardened plated steel	2.35
OC6PNMU	STREAMLINED PROP TAIL NUT, fits smooth 3/16" (.187) diameter shaft, 3/8"dia., 314"long with 8/32 set screw, (unthreaded) hardened plated steel	2.35
OC6PNS	STREAMLINED PROP TAIL NUT, fits 10-32 thread on a 3/16"(.187) dia.shaft, 7/16" dia.,13/16" long w/ 8/32 set screw , hardened plated steel	2.35
OC6PNMS	STREAMLINED PROP TAIL NUT,fits 10-32 thread on a 3/16"(.187) dia.shaft, 3/8" dia., 3/4" long w/ 8/32 set screw, hardened plated steel	2.35
OCSPNU	STREAMLINED PROP TAIL NUT, fits smooth 1/4" (.250) diameter shaft, 7/16" dia., 13/16" long w/ 8/32 set screw,(unthreaded) hardened plated steel	2.35
OC8PNM	STREAMLINED PROP TAIL NUT, fits 1/4-28 thread on a 1/4"(.250) dia.shaft, 3/8" hex, 15/16" long, brass	2.15
THRUST WASHERS
OC4TW	THRUST WASHER SET (consisting of 2 metal washers and 2 moly-nylon washers) 1/8" bore	.75
OC6TWM	THRUST WASHER SET (same as above)3/16", bore 3/8" O.D. 3/16" long	1.45
OC6TW	THRUST WASHER SET (consisting of 2 hardened steel and 2 moly-nylon washers) 3/16" bore, 7/16" O.D. 3/16" long	1.65
OC8TW	THRUST WASHER SET (same as above) 1/4", bore 1/2" O.D. 3/16" long	1.85
DRIVE DOGS
OC4D	DRIVE DOG, 1/8" bore, 1/4" diameter, with 4/40 set screw, brass	1.85
OC6DMM	DRIVE DOG, 3/16" bore, 5/16" dia., w/ 4/40 set screw, hardened plated steel	1.85
OC6DM	DRIVE DOG, 3/16" bore, 3/8" dia., w/ 8/32 set screw, hardened plated steel	1.85
OC6DT	DRIVE DOG, 3/16" bore, 7/16" to 3/8" tapered outside diameter, with 8/32 set screw, hardened plated steel -	1.95
OC6D	DRIVE DOG, 3/16" bore,7/16" dia., w/ 8/32 set screw, hardened plated steel	1.85
OC6DD	DRIVE DOG, 3/16" bore,7/16" dia., w/ two 8/32 set screws,hardened pltd steel	2.35
OCSD	DRIVE DOG, 1/4" bore, 1/2"’ dia., w/ two 8/32 set screws, hardened plated steel	2.35
OC8DM	DRIVE DOG, 1/4" bore, 7/16" dia., w/ 8/32 set screw,hardened plated steel	1.95
OC8DT	DRIVE DOG, as used in the STRUDDER PACKAGE 93, 1/4" bore with 9/161′dia. tapered to 15/32", with two 8-32 set screws, hardened plated steel	2.45
OC6D5	DRIVE DOG, SYM bore,7/16" dia., with 8/32 set screw, hardened plated steel	1.85
OC6DH	DRIVE DOG, 3/16" bore,7/16" dia., with 8/32 set screw – stainless steel	2.75
BALL THRUST BEARINGS
OC6TB	BALL THRUST BEARING SET (consisting of a ball retainer and two hardened steel washers) 3/16" bore, 7/16" O.D. 3/16" long -	8.75
OC8TB	BALL THRUST BEARING SET (consisting of A ball retainer and two hardened steel washers) 1/4" bore	8.85
NOSE PIECES
OC4NP	NOSE PIECE, (brass), for use with .098 cable, to .125 prop shaft (OC4PS) in our OC4SBE strut blade	1.45
OC613ONP	NOSE PIECE, (brass), for use with .130 cable, to .187 prop shaft (OC6130PS) in our OC6SBE strut blade	1.45
OC61SONP	NOSE PIECE, (brass), for use with .150 cable, to .187 prop shaft (OC6150PS) in our OC6SBE strut blade	1.45
OC6NP40	NOSE PIECE, (brass), for use with .150 cable, to .187 prop shaft (OC6150PS) in our OC6SB40 strut blade	1.75
OC8NP	NOSE PIECE 7/16 O.D. with 11/32 dia. boss to press fit in strudders bord for needle bearings. 1/4" (internal diameter) bore accepts OC6LTS sleeve bearing and 1/4" O.D. teflon tubing, for use with 311@ prop shaft and .187 cable.(hardened plated steel)	1.45
LEAD TEFLON SLEEVE BEARINGS
OC4LTS	LEAD TEFLON SLEEVE BEARING, 1/8" (internal diameter) 3/16" O.D. 3/16" long (one in pkg)	1.15
OC6LTS	LEAD TEFLON SLEEVE BEARING, 3/16" (internal diameter) 1/4" O.D. 3/8" long (one in pkg)	1.20
OC6LTSB	LEAD TEFLON SLEEVE BEARINGS as above, 5 in package (saves you 10% over buying them separately)	5.40
OC8LTS	LEAD TEFLON SLEEVE BEARING, 1/4" (internal diameter) 5/16" O.D. 3/8" long (one in pkg)	1.75
OC8LTSB	LEAD TEFLON SLEEVE BEARINGS as above, 5 in package (saves 80 cents over buying them separately) -	7.95
REDUCER BUSHINGS
OC8RB	REDUCER BUSHING 11/32.’ O.D. 1/4" (internal diameter) to install 1/4 O.D.x 3/16" (internal diameter) sleeve bearings (like the OC6LTS) into struts bored 11/32" (plated steel)	1.00
OC1ORB	REDUCER BUSHING 11/32" O.D. 5/16" (internal diameter) to install 5/16" O.D. x 1/4" (internal diameter) sleeve bearings (like the OC8LTS) into struts bored 11/32" (plated steel)	1.20
OC1ORB916	REDUCER BUSHING 7/16.1 O.D.,5/16" (internal diameter) to install two 5/16" O.D. sleeve bearings (like the OC8LTS) into the OC8SBE strut blade (brass)	1.85
OC68RB	REDUCER BUSHING for installing .250 (1/4") dia. bore prop to .187 (3/16") dia. shaft machined brass	1.40
NEEDLE BEARINGS
OC6NE	NEEDLE BEARING, 3/16" (internal diameter) 11/32" O.D. rated 30,000 rpm (use only with hardened prop shaft) (sold individually)	7.95
OC8NE	NEEDLE BEARING, 1/4" (internal diameter) 7/16" O.D. (fits only in strut blades with 7/16" bore) (sold individually)	8.00
STRUT BLADES AVAILABLE SEPARATELY
DVBO	STRUDDER STRUT BLADE OR DEEP VEE ADJUSTABLE STRUT BLADE ONLY extruded aluminum, non profiled (bored 11/32")	6.65
DVMBO	STRUT BLADE ONLY as used in STRUDDER M, DEEP VEE M ADJUSTABLE STRUT, PACKAGE 92 (Q,B,C,D,) or PACKAGE 94 – extruded aluminum with underwater section machine profiled (bored 11/32") ( slotted for adjustability)	7.65
SDBO	SURFACE DRIVE ADJUSTABLE STRUT BLADE extruded aluminum with flat bottom (bored 11/32") to be used where the strut blade is a riding surface	7.65
OC8SBE2	STRUT BLADE this is the strut blade used in the PACKAGE 93 strudder, manganese bronze with 45 degree back sweep – this is the ONLY one of our strut blades which will accept 1/4"(internal diameter) needle bearings (OC8NE) (needle bearings not included) set screw holes machined to allow installation of offset rudder (rudder offset rods not included) ‘trut has 7/16" I.D	23.95
OC8SBE3	STRUT BLADE as above but with 2-OC1ORB916 reducers and 4-OC8LTS lead teflon sleeve bearings with 1/4" (internal diameter) installed	32.95
SSSSBO	CAST STAINLESS STEEL STRUT BLADE with skeg – bore 11/32" (see illustration) -	16.95
SSSLBO	CAST STAINLESS STEEL STRUT BLADE with skeg – 11/32" bore (see illustration) prop shaft at the same place as with our DVMBO strut blade. recommended for use with larger gas engines (this is the strut blade that comes on the OC8STR-Q)	25.95
SSASBO	CAST ALUMINUM STRUT BLADE same as SSSSBO but in aluminum	15.95
SSALBO	CAST ALUMINUM STRUT BLADE same as SSSLBO but in aluminum	19.95
S U	STRUT BLADE cast beryllium copper – designed with scale unlimited hulls or sport 40 hulls in mind. 2 1/4" long, blade 1 1/2"wide & .10011 thick, two slots one inch apart, 3/8"dia. boss – comes with 2-OC6LTS sleeve bearings installed. (SEE ILLUSTRATION)	18.00
OC4SBE	STRUT BLADE, beryllium copper,.250 diameter shaft housiny.187 dia. bore, with skeg, blade width .687 (use with OC4LTS lead teflon sleeve bearings -2 recommended) for use with 1/8" dia. prop shaft. (SEE ILLUSTRATION ) (beryllium copper)	11.25
OC4SBEPA	STRUT BLADE – OC4SBE with 2 OC4LTS-lead teflon sleeve bearings and an OC4NP-nose piece installed (beryllium copper)	14.25
OC6SBE	STRUT BLADE, beryllium copper, 5/16" diameter shaft housing .250 diameter bore. with skeg, blade width .687 (use with OC6LTS – 2 recommended) for use with 3/16" dia. prop shaft (SEE ILLUSTRATION )	14.25
OC6SBEPA-130	STRUT BLADE – OC6SBE (strut blade) with 2 OC6LTS (sleeve bearings) and an OC613ONP nose piece installed, designed for use with a .130 cable and a .187 prop shaft. (recommended stub shaft – OC6130PS)(beryllium copper)	14.25
OC6SBEPA-150	STRUT BLADE – OC6SBE (strut blade) with 2 OC6LTS (sleeve bearings) and an OC615OUP nose piece installed. designed for use with a .150 cable and a .187 prop shaft. (recommended stub shaft – OC6150PS) (beryllium copper)	14.25
OC6SB40	cast aluminum strut blade for a .45 size boat, comes with 2-OC6LTS sleeve bearings installed (see illustration)	10.95
BRACKETS
OC4SBBR	BERYLLIUM COPPER MOUNTING BRACKET for strut blades OC4SBE or OC6SBE,back of the hull or through bottom installation with four 4/40 nuts & bolts and a 5140 socket head bolt with lock nut for clamping. This bracket is also used in the wedge rudder assembly. This bracket can also be used with OCSKFIN B/0 (SEE ILLUSTRATION)	9.95
OC6SBBR	ADJUSTABLE STRUT BRACKET (cast aluminum) with four 6-32 t-nuts and bolts for mounting and one 10-32 bolt/lock nut (can be used with the following strut blades DVBO, DVMBO, SDBO, SSSSBO, SSSLBO, SSASBO, or SSALBO.) (also used on the OC6WRL2)	12.95
OC6SBBR40	cast aluminum mounting bracket for the OC6SB40 strut blade (this is also the same mounting bracket used on the OC6WR40 rudder assembly. Comes with 8-32 bolt/lock nut and four 6-32 t-nuts and bolts for mounting.(See illustration)	9.95
STRUDDER BRACKETS
OC4STBR	STRUDDER BRACKET cast beryllium copper with two 5140 socket head bolts and lock nuts for clamping and four 4140 nuts and b-olts for mounting. ( used on the OC4STR/C and the OC6STR-130 7150/64) -	11.95
OC6STBR	STRUDDER BRACKET: two piece-extruded aluminum- with two 10-32 bolts/lock nuts as used on the PACKAGE 93, OC8STR-Q, PACKAGE 92 (Q,C)	12.25
OC6STBR7	7.5 STRUDDER BRACKET: same as above but with 7.5 degree angle – as used on PACKAGE 92B or PACKAGE 92D	13.25
WEDGE RUDDER ASSEMBLIES
OC4WRC	same as the OC4WR rudder assembly as listed above but without the mounting bracket. beryllium copper -	20.95
OC4WRMC	same as OC4WRM rudder assembly as listed above but without mounting bracket. beryllium copper (SEE ILLUSTRATION)	24.95
WEDGE RUDDER BLADES ONLY – extruded aluminum
WRBOL	LARGE without water pickup hole – 3 3/4"from underside of lower tiller arm to bottom of blade (6 3/8"overall length)(as used in the (STRUDOFF) offset strudders)	6.10
WRBOLO	LARGE with water pickup hole extruded in the blade – uniquely machined at the top so the water flow is not restricted – 3 3/4"from underside of lower tiller arm to bottom of blade (6 3/8" overall length)(as used in the strudder M, strudder 750 M, OC8STR-Q, PACKAGE 92, PACKAGE 92B, PACKAGE 93, OC6WRL (large wedge rudder) or OC6WRL2)(pick up is available machined on the right or the left, if you have a preference, please let us know)	6.60
WRBOLX	Extra long blade with groove for brass water pick up tube ( brass tube not included) – 4 3/4" from underside of lower tiller arm to bottom of blade (7 3/8"overall length)	7.10
WRBOLOX	x-long rudder blade – 1 1/2" longer than the WRBOLO with water pick UP extruded in the back of the blade. Machined pick up available on right or left side, if you have a preference, please specify -	7.60
MISCELLANEOUS
OC6PIBR	STRUDDER RUDDER PIVOT BRACKET -extruded aluminum – with 2 OC6LTS sleeve bearings installed as used in strudder M, strudder 750 M, PACKAGE 92 (Q)	5.95
OC6PIBRD	STRUDDER RUDDER PIVOT BRACKET – cast aluminum – with 2 OC6LTS sleeve bearings installed as used in OC8STR-Q/C strudder packages	13.25
OC6PIBR2	PIVOT BRACKET ONLY – cast aluminum – as used on the OC6WRL2 – with 2 OC6LTS sleeve bearings installed	14.95
OC6WRBR	WEDGE RUDDER MOUNTING BRACKET – extruded aluminum – with 2 OC6LTS sleeve bearings installed and four 6-32 t-nuts and bolts- as used in OC6WRL	5.95
OCOFFSET	OFFSET STRUDDER CONVERSIN PACKAGE. Consists of 2 stainless steel support rods, 1 pivot block with sleeve bearings and 2 10-32 set screws,l pivot block with 2 10-32 set screws	12.95
OC6PISH	RUDDER OR STRUDDER RUDDER PIVOT SHAFT with E-ring and 2-nylon washers – as used on OC8STR-Q, PACKAGE 93, PACKAGE 92 (Q, B, C, D,), OC6WRL or OC6WRL2	1.35
TA-2	TILLER ARMS, fits 3/16" dia. shaft,molded nylon,wl nut and bolt, (one per package) as used on any of the strudders or rudders listed above with OC6PISE pivot shaft	1.15
PROP BALANCERS
OC468PB	This prop balancer has an extruded aluminum base and two parallel steel rods for the pro shaft to roll on. It comes complete with a leveling screw and three prop shaft (1/4", 3/16" & 1/8") which store within the unit. Instructions are included.	23.95
OC456PB	This is the metric version of our handy prop balancer. It comes with 4mm, 5mm & 6mm prop shafts	29.95

FLEX HEX FOR CONNECTING SQUARED END FLEX CABLE to threaded motor output shaft
OCFH146Q	1/4-28 to .187 squared end cable						9.95
OCFHKB6Q	K & B .21 – .67 to .187 squared end cable						9.95
OCFHO6S6Q	OPS 65 & 80 (6mm) to .187 squared end cable						9.95
24"PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS WITH ONE SQUARED END (Please specify A-for cable only, B-for cable with teflon tubing, or C-cable with teflon tubing and ferrule.)
OC6SQL-24	.187 dia left (standard) lay						(A) 5.95 (B) 8.85 (C) 11.65
OC6SQR-24	.187 dia. right lay						(A) 5.95 (B) 8.85 (C) 11.65
OC8SQL-24	.250 dia. left (standard) lay						(A) 6.95 (B) 10.55 (C) 13.35
OC8SQR-24	.250 dia. right lay						(A) 6.95 (B) 10.55 (C) 13.35
18" PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS WITH ONE SQUARED END
OCSSQL-18	.250 dia.,left (standard) lay						5.95
36"PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS WITH BOTH ENDS SQUARED ideal if the boater needs a .250 squared end cable longer than 24", also great for the boater who needs less than 18" in length – now they can get two out of one
OC8SQL-36	.250 dia.,left (standard) lay						10.95
24" PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS available with matching teflon tubing, and separate stub shaft (Please specify A, B, or C when ordering)
OC098L-24	.098 dia. left (standard) lay						1.65 3.00 (OC4PS) 5.50
OC098R-24	.098 dia. right lay						1.65 3.00 (OC4PS) 5.50
OC13OL-24	.130 dia. left (standard) lay						1.70 3.90 (OC6130PS) 6.80
OC13OR-24	.130 dia. right lay						1.70 3.90 (OC6130PS) 6.80
OC1SOL-24	.150 dia. left (standard) lay						1.90 4.50 (OC6150PS) 7.40
OC15OR-24	.150 dia. right lay						1.90 4.50 (OC6150PS) 7.40
OC187L-24	.187 dia. left (standard) lay						2.90 5.80 (OCFSF1818) 8.60
OC187R-24	.187 dia. right lay						2.90 5.80 (OCFSF1818) 8.60
OC25OL-24	.250 dia. left (standard) lay						7.90 11.50 (OCFSF2518) 14.30
OC25OR-24	.250 dia. right lay						7.90 11.50 (OCFSF2518) 14.30
24" PRECUT TEFLON TUBING
OC098T-24	24" teflon tubing for .098 cable						1.40
OC130T-24	24" teflon tubing for .130 cable						2.20
OC150T-24	24" teflon tubing for .150 cable						2.60
OC187T-24	24" teflon tubing for .187 cable						2.90
OC250T-24	24" teflon tubing for .250 cable						3.60
BULK FLEXIBLE CABLE AND FLEXIBLE TEFLON TUBING IN 20′ PACKAGES FLEXIBLE CABLE NOTE : ALL SIZES OF FLEX CABLE are available in standard left lay,or in right lay, left lay will be shipped unless otherwise specified.
OC098L-240	(20′ x .098)						14.85
OC130L-240	(20′ x .130)						15.30
OC150L-240	(20′ x .150)						17.10
OC187L-240	(20′ x .187)						26.10
OC250L-240	(20′ x .250)						71.10
TEFLON TUBING NOTE : when ordering Teflon tubing, remember, the .098 Teflon tubing is for the .098 cable, the .130 tubing is for the .130 cable, etc.
OC098T-240	(20′ x .098)						12.60
OC130T-240	(20′ x .130)						19.80
OC150T-240	(20′ x .150)						23.40
OC187T-240	(20′ x .187)						26.10
OC250T-240	(20′ x .250)						32.40
FLEX FERRULE – FOR CONNECTING FLEXIBLE SHAFT TO PROPELLER SHAFT (IN BRASS)
OCFSF2518	7/16" O.D., .250 DIAMETER FLEXIBLE CABLE TO .187 SHAFT						2.95
OCFSF2525	7/16" O.D., .250 DIAMETER FLEXIBLE CABLE TO .250 SHAFT						2.95
OCFSF1818	7/16" O.D., .187 DIAMETER FLEXIBLE CABLE TO .187 SHAFT						2.95
OCFSF616	3/8" O.D., .187 DIAMETER FLEXIBLE CABLE TO .187 SHAFT (The above OCFSF616 ferrule matches the smaller boss on the SU Strut blade or the OC6SB40 strut blade)						2.7
OCFSF916	9/16" O.D., .250 DIAMETER FLEXIBLE CABLE TO .250 SHAFT (The above OCFSF916 ferrule is to be used with the OC8SBE strut blade to match the outside diameter on the boss of that strut blade)						3.50
OCFH FLEX HEX – FOR COUPLING FLEXIBLE SHAFT TO THREADED ENGINE CRANKSHAFT Do not use with squared end flex cable. ( DO NOT USE WITH SOLID DRIVE SHAFTS. If using a solid drive shaft – see universals on page 22)
PN	Fits Engine			Cable Size
OCFHR6518	ROSSI 65 & 80 8mm with pilot			.187			7.95
OCFHR6525	ROSSI 65 & 80 8mm with pilot			.250			7.95
OCFHR9018	ROSSI 90 5mm with pilot			.187			9.95
OCFHR9025	ROSSI 90 – 8mm with pilot			.250			9.95
OCFHO4518	OPS 45 1/4-28 with pilot			.187			7.95
OCFHO4525	OPS 45 1/4-28 with pilot			.250			8.95
OCFHO6518	OPS 65 & 80 – 6mm with pilot			.187			7.95
OCFHO6525	OPS 65 & 80 6mm with pilot			.250			8.95
OCFHO9018	OPS 90 10mm with pilot			.187			9.95
OCFHO9025	OPS 90 10mm with pilot			.250			9.95
OCFHP4518	PICCO 45 1/4-28 with pilot			.187			7.95
OCFHP6518	PICCO 65 & 80 & 90 8mm with pilot			.187			7.95
OCFHP6525	PICCO 65 & 80 & 90 – 8mm with pilot			.250			7.95
OCFHKB15	K & B .21 – .67 1/4-28 with pilot			.150			7.95
OCFHKB18	K & B .21 – .67 1/4-28 with pilot			.187			7.95
OCFHKB25	K & B .21 – .67 1/4-28 with pilot			.250			8.95
OCFHOS46	OS 46 1/4-28 with pilot			.187			7.95
OCFH5MMO9	5MM			.098			7.95
OCFH5MM13	5MM			.130			7.95
OCFH5MM15	5MM			.150			7.95
OCFH6MM15	6MM			.150			7.95
OCFH6MM18	6MM			.187			7.95
OCFH6MM25	6MM			.250			8.95
OCFH7MM15	7MM			.150			7.95
OCFH7MM18	7MM			.187			7.95
OCFH8MM18	8MM			.187			7.95
OCFH8MM25	8MM			.250			7.95
OCFH10313	10/32			.130			5.95
OCFH10315	10/32			.150			5.95
OCFH1413	1/4-28			.130			7.95
OCFH1415	1/4-28			.150			7.95
OCFH1418	1/4-28			.187			7.95
OCFH1425	1/4-28			.250			8.95
OCFH51615	5/16-24			.150			7.95
OCFH51618	5/16-24			.187			7.95
OCFH51625	5/16-24			.250			7.95
NOTE :with pilot means there is a shoulder or hub that fits inside the flywheel on that specific engine for the most thread contact.
OCFHE FLEX HEX FOR COUPLING FLEXIBLE SHAFT TO ELECTRIC MOTOR OUTPUT SHAFT, smooth bore with set screw at motor end
PN	Fits Engine			Cable Size
OCFHE18-098	1/8" SMOOTH			.098			7.50
OCFHE532-098	5/32" SMOOTH			.098			7.50
OCFHE316-130	3/16" SMOOTH			.130			7.50
OCFHE316-150	3/16" SMOOTH			.150			7.50
OCFHE5MM-130	5MM SMOOTH			.130			7.50
OCFHE5MM-150	5MM SMOOTH			.150			7.50
MOTOR MOUNTS
OCOB35	OUTBOARD MOTOR MOUNT – adjustable motor mount for outboard motor extruded aluminum one piece base, cast aluminum pivot bracket with two sleeve bearings installed for the 3/16" -pivot shaft (that comes with the motor) to pivot on						18.95
OCOB75	OUTBOARD MOTOR MOUNT – adjustable motor mount design to fit 7.5 or larger outboard motor. Extruded aluminum one piece base (mounting holes spacing matches stock mounting holes-which means if the motor was alread 1installed-and the adjustable mount is being added no new holes have to be drilled)- calt beryllium pivot bra-cket will accommodate the 1/4"pivot shaft						18.95
OCOB35 I/0	3.5 adjustable outboard motor mount pivot bracket only cast in aluminum with sleeve bearings installed						11.95
OCOB75 I/0	7.5 or larger adjustable outboard motor mount pivot bracket only – cast in beryllium copper						11.95
(all inboard motor mounts are extruded aluminum)
PN		Width		Engine Size		Type
3-30		3"		1-.75		V TYPE MOUNT	5.95
4-40		4"		3.5 – 7.5		V TYPE MOUNT	7.95
4-50		4"		3.5 – 7.5		V TYPE MOUNT	8.25
4-65		4"		.65 – .80		V TYPE MOUNT	8.50
TWIN 20		4"		3.5 ONLY		FLAT TYPE MOUNT	12.40
IV-45 3.5 HUMM-DINGER		4"		3.5 ONLY		VIBRATION ABSORPTION	39.95
IV-45 7.5 HUMM-DINGER		4"		3.5 – 7.5		VIBRATION ABSORPTION	39.95
IV-45 HUMM-DINGER		4"		7.5 – 11		VIBRATION ABSORPTION	39.95
60 MULTI		5"		7.5 – 10		FLAT TYPE MOUNT	7.45
OMNI		5"		7.5 – 10		SAME AS ABOVE MINUS END FLANGES	5.95
5-55		5"		7.5 – 10		V TYPE MOUNT	8.75
5-60		5"		7.5 – 10		FOR OUTRIGGER HULLS	9.00
5-65		5"		7.5 – 11		V TYPE MOUNT	9.00
5-90		5"		11 – 15		V TYPE MOUNT	16.25
SWIFT SWITCH		5"		7.5 – 11		V TYPE MOUNT (COMPLETE : BASE/INSERT)	17.95
V65 7.5 HUMM-DINGER		5"		7.5 ONLY		VIBRATION ABSORPTION	39.95
V65 HUMM-DINGER		5"		7.5 – 11		VIBRATION ABSORPTION	39.95
V90 HUMM-DINGER		5"		11 – 15		VIBRATION ABSORPTION	46.95
VI-90 HUMM-DINGER		6"		11 – 15		VIBRATION ABSORPTION	46.95
6-90		6"		11 – 15		V TYPE MOUNT	17.95
TWIN 60		6"		7.5 – 11		FLAT TYPE MOUNT	20.95
SIDE MOUNTING PADS MACHINED AND HOLES DRILLED. MOTOR MOUNTING PADS UNDRILLED AND UNTAPPED. 4 MOTOR MOUNTING SCREWS INCLUDED WITH ALL MOUNTS. OPENED DRILLED AND TAPPED MOTOR MOUNTS HUMMDINGER MOTOR MOUNTS
PN			Width		Engine
IV-45 P45			4"		OPENED,DRILLED & TAPPED FOR PICCO .45		41.95
IV-45 K21			4"		OPENED,DRILLED & TAPPED FOR K & B .21		41.95
IV-45 K45			4"		OPENED,DRILLED & TAPPED FOR K & B .45		41.95
IV-45 K65			4"		OPENED,DRILLED & TAPPED FOR K & B .67/.82		41.95
V-65 P45			5"		OPENED,DRILLED & TAPPED FOR PICCO .45		41.95
V-65 K45			5"		OPENED,DRILLED & TAPPED FOR K & B .45		41.95
V-65 K65			5"		OPENED,DRILLED & TAPPED FOR K & B .67/.82		41.95
TWIN 60 MOTOR MOUNTS (8 motor mounting screws included)
PN			Width		Engine
T60 P45			6"		OPENED DRILLED & TAPPED FOR TWO PICCO .45		24.00
T60 065			6"		OPENED DRILLED & TAPPED TO FIT EITHER TWO OPS .65′S OR TWO PICCO .65′S		24.00
MOTOR MOUNT PARTS ORDERED SEPARATELY
SWIFT				SWITCH BASE ONLY			12.00
SWIFT				SWITCH INSERT ONLY (used in swift switch mount or V-65)			6.95
V-65 I/O 7.5				INSERT ONLY (opened for K & B 7.5 or similar crank case size)			6.95
V-65 I/O K45				INSERT ONLY (opened, drilled and tapped for K & B 7.5)			9.25
V-65 I/O P45				INSERT ONLY (opened, drilled and tapped for PICCO 7.5)			9.25
V-65 I/O K65				INSERT ONLY (opened, drilled and tapped for K & B .67/.82)			9.25
IV-45 I/O				INSERT ONLY (used in standard IV-45 hummdinger)			6.95
IV-45 I/O 3.5				INSERT ONLY (opened for K & B 3.5 or similar crank case size)			6.95
IV-45 I/O K21				INSERT ONLY (opened, drilled and tapped for K & B 3.5)			9.25
IV-45 I/O 7.5				INSERT ONLY (opened for K & B 7.5 or similar crankcase size)			6.95
IV-45 I/O K45				INSERT ONLY (opened, drilled and tapped for K & B 7.5)			9.25
IV-45 I/O P45				INSERT ONLY (opened, drilled and tapped for PICCO 7.5)			9.25
IV-45 I/O K65				INSERT ONLY (opened, drilled and tapped for K & B .67/.82)			9.25
V-90 / VI-90				INSERT ONLY			15.00
REPLACEMENT SMALL RUBBER BUSHINGS FOR IV45 MOUNT				(1/2"x1/2" with 8-32 female threads) set of 4)			1.95
B D REPLACEMENT LARGE RUBBER BUSHINGS FOR V-90 & V-65 MOUNTS				(5/8"x5/8" with 1/4-20 male and female threads )(set of 4)			14.95
SCREWS / NUTS / BOLTS
SS4402	4-40 SET SCREWS (2 per package)						.25
SS4409	4-40 SET SCREWS (9 per package)						1.00
SS6322	6-32 SOCKET HEAD SET SCREWS (2 per package)						.25
SS6329	6-32 SOCKET HEAD SET SCREWS (9 per package)						1.0
SS8322	8-32 SOCKET HEAD SET SCREWS (2 per package)						.2L
SS8329	8-32 SOCKET HEAD SET SCREWS (9 per package)						1.00
SS10322	10-32 SOCKET HEAD SET SCREWS (2 per package)						.25
SS10329	10 32 SOCKET HEAD SET SCREWS (9 per package)						1.00
	6-32 T NUTS & BOLTS (SET OF 4)						1.00
	8-32 T NUTS & BOLTS (SET OF 4)						1.10
	10-32 T NUTS & BOLTS (SET OF 4)						1.20
	8-32 BUTTON HEAD BOLTS (SET OF 4)						1.00
	10-32 BUTTON HEAD BOLTS (SET OF 4)						1.00
	6-32 BREAKAWAY NYLON BOLTS (SET OF 4)						.50
	8-32 BREAKAWAY NYLON BOLTS (SET OF 4)						.50
	10-32 BREAKAWAY NYLON BOLTS (SET OF 4)						.50
HEX WRENCHES
EW4SS	HEX WRENCH FOR 4/40 SET SCREW (as used in the OC4D or OC6DMM drive dogs)						.30
HW6SS	HEX WRENCH FOR 6/32 SET SCREW						.30
HW6B	HEX WRENCH FOR 6/32 BOLT						.30
HW8SS	HEX WRENCH FOR 8/32 SET SCREW						.30
EW8B	HEX WRENCH FOR 8/32 BOLT						.30
HW1OSS	HEX WRENCH FOR 10/32 SET SCREW						.30
HW1OB	HEX WRENCH FOR 10/32 BOLT						.30
HWALL	ONE OF EACH ABOVE HEX WRENCHES (SET OF 7)						2.00
WATER PICK-UPS & OUTLETS
#71	WATER SCOOP, brass, adjustable depth, plus outlet (SEE ILLUSTRATION)						2.75
#71-0	WATER OUTLET, brass (SEE ILLUSTRATION)						1.40
OCSW	STREAMLINED WATER PICK-UP, brass (SEE ILLUSTRATION)						3.50
OCSWP	STREAMLINED WATER PICK-UP PLUS OUTLET (71-0), brass						4.75
SMWP	STERN MOUNT WATER PICKUP, beryllium copper (SEE ILLUSTRATION)						11.21
STARTER BELTS
LARGE	(approximately 19" circumference)						5.25
MEDIUM	(approximately 17" circumference)						4.25
SMALL	(approximately 14" circumference)						3.75
EXHAUST COUPLING HIGH TEMPERATURE EXHAUST COUPLING, 3" long reinforced high temperature silicone tubing to connect exhaust to tune pipe
OC16HTEC	1/2" (internal diameter)						3.50
OC20HTEC	5/8" (internal diameter)						3.75
OC24HTEC	3/4" (internal diameter)						4.00
OC28HTEC	7/8" (internal diameter)						4.25
OC32HTEC	1" (internal diameter)						4.50
SHAFT COLLARS
0C6SC	SHAFT COLLAR, 3/16" bore, 1/4" long, 7/16" dia. with 8/32 set screw – hardened plated steel						1.95
0C6SCD	SHAFT COLLAR, 3/16" bore, 1/2" long, 7/16" dia. with two 8/32 set screws – hardened plated steel						1.95
0C6SSC	STREAMLINED SHAFT COLLAR, 3/16" bore, 5/8" long, 7/16" dia. w/ 8/32 set screw – hardened plated steel						1.95
0C6SSCM	STREAMLINED SHAFT COLLAR, 3/16" bore, 9/16" long, 3/811 diai w/ 8/32 set screw – hardened plated steel						1.95
0C6SSC5	STREAMLINED SHAFT COLLAR, 5mm bore, 5/8" long, 7/1611 dia. w/ 8/32 set screw – hardened plated steel						1.95
ADAPTERS
OCGCS	PROP STUB SHAFT (3/16" to 4mm) WITH 0C6DM (drive dog),WASHER AND RETAINING NUT TO REPLACE 4MM shaft in Graupner or Kyosho Jetstream outdrive to allow installation of any 3/16" bore props 3" long						4.45
OCGCSL	PROP STUB SHAFT same as above but 3 1/4" long for Graupner Hydrospeed or Monster outdrive						4.45
OCGCSS	PROP STUB SHAFT same as OCGCS but 2 3/4" long for Traxxas Villan						4.45
OC4MM2187	PROP ADAPTER slides over a 4mm prop shaft and lock on with a set screw to allow installation of 3/16" bore props						4.45
OC64PKG	PROP SHAFT PACKAGE- this package is ideal if you are converting a boat set up for geared electric to a .10 or .12 glo engine direct drive. It includes a new 3/16" prop shaft (which fits in our 0C6SBEPA-130 strut blade strut blade not included) which is stepped down to accept .125 (1/8") bore propellers, and is counter-bored for .130 diameter flex cable. It comes with 18" .130 diameter flex cable & matching teflon tubing,OC4D(drive dog),OC4PN (prop tail nut) and a nylon washer						9.95
BEARING EXTENDERS
OC11BE	BEARING EXTENDER, presses into struts or strudders bored 11/3211 to extend bearing 1/2" further out						1.45
TILLER ARMS
	TILLER ARMS, FIT 3/16.1 DIA. SHAFT, MOLDED NYLONF PLUS NUT AND BOLT(one per package): please specify TA-1 (for flat blade) or TA-2 (for wedge blade) NOTE: the TA-2 are used on the all the strudder and wedge rudder assemblies with an extruded aluminim rudder blade.						1.15
TA-3	BRASS TILLER ARMS FOR 3116" DIA. SHAFT (one piece) with set screw						5.65
MISCELLEANOUS
	ANTENNA MOUNT						2.10
	ANTENNA MOUNT II (can be mounted on deck or stern ) (see illustration )						2.50
OC9100	COWL LATCHES plastic -package of 2 with mounting screws						4.50
OC9200	AUTO BAILER imported – (see illustration)						6.95
	WATERPROOF BOX SEALS(ALSO KNOWN AS PUSH-RODS SEALS) (BRU-LINE)						2.99
FINS
OC4FIN	FIN BLADE precision cast beryllium copper (SEE ILLUSTRATION)						9.95
OCSKFIN	with bracket – cast beryllium copper skid fin for deep vees, and monos, blade is held in bracket with a single bolt to allow it to kick up on impact, or to allow it to be swung safely out of the way when transporting						24.50
OCSKFINA	same as above but cast in aluminum						24.50
OCSKFIN	B/0 skid fin blade only (no mounting bracket ) in beryllium copper (SEE ILLUSTRATION )						14.75
OCSKFIN-A	B/0 skid fin blade only ( no mounting bracket ) in aluminum						14.75

Propeller Range | Basic Propeller Recomendations

Propeller Range

Ref	Diameter	Pitch	Fits shaft size	Plastic	Aluminum	Beryllium Copper
930	30mm (1.18")	0.9 x 1.18 =1.062"	1/8"		x	x
937/3	37mm (1.48")	0.9 x 1.48 =1.332"	1/8"		x	x
955/3	55mm (2.17")	0.9 x 2.17 =1.953"	3/16"			x
0955/3R	55mm (2.17")	0.9 x 2.17 =1.953"	3/16"			x
977	77mm (3.03")	0.9 x 3.03 =2.727"	1/4"			x
1240	40mm (1.57")	1.2 x 1.57 =1.884"	3/16"	x
1240/3	40mm (1.57")	1.2 x 1.57 =1.884"	3/16"			x
1245	45mm (1.77")	1.2 x 1.77 =2.124"	3/16"	x
1250	50mm (1.97")	1.2 x 1.97 =2.364"	3/16"	x
1250R	50mm (1.97")	1.2 x 1.97 =2.364"	3/16"	x
1255	55mm (2.17")	1.2 x 2.17 =2.604"	3/16"	x
1270	70mm (2.76")	1.2 x 2.76 =3.312"	3/16"	x
1337/3	37mm (1.48")	1.3 x 1.48 =1.924"	3/16"			x
1427	27mm (1.07")	1.4 x 1.07 =1.498"	1/8"		x	x
1435	35mm (1.38")	1.4 x 1.38 =1.932"	3/16"	x
1440	40mm (1.57")	1.4 x 1.57 =2.198"	3/16"	x
1445	45mm (1.77")	1.4 x 1.77 =2.478"	3/16"	x
1450	50mm (1.97")	1.4 x 1.97 =2.758"	3/16"	x		x
1455	55mm (2.17")	1.4 x 2.17 =3.038"	3/16"	x		x
1455/3	55mm (2.17")	1.4 x 2.17 =3.038"	3/16"			x
1457	57mm (2.24")	1.4 x 2.24 =3.136"	3/16"	x		x
1457R	57mm (2.24")	1.4 x 2.24 =3.136"	3/16"	x
1457/3	57mm (2.24")	1.4 x 2.24 =3.136"	3/16"			x
1460	60mm (2.36")	1.4 x 2.36 =3.304"	3/16"	x		x
1462	62mm (2.44")	1.4 x 2.44 =3.416"	3/16"	x		x
1462R	62mm (2.44")	1.4 x 2.44 =3.416"	3/16"	x
1465	65mm (2.56")	1.4 x 2.56 =3.584"	3/16"	x		x
1467	67mm (2.64")	1.4 x 2.64 =3.696"	1/4"			x
1470	70mm (2.76")	1.4 x 2.76 =3.864"	3/16"	x
1470	70mm (2.76")	1.4 x 2.76 =3.864"	1/4"			x
1475	75mm (2.95")	1.4 x 2.95 =4.130"	1/4"			x
1540	40mm (1.57")	1.5 x 1.57 = 2.355"	3/16"			x
1567	67mm (2.64")	1.5 x 2.64 = 3.960"	1/4"			x
1630	30mm (1.18")	1.6 x 1.18 = 1.888"	1/8"		x	x
1640	40mm (1.57")	1.6 x 1.57 = 2.512"	3/16"			x
1650	50mm (1.97")	1.6 x 1.97 = 3.152"	3/16"			x
1655	55mm (2.17")	1.6 x 2.17 = 3.472"	3/16"			x
1657	57mm (2.24")	1.6 x 2.24 = 3.584"	3/16"			x
1662	62mm (2.44")	1.6 x 2.44 = 3.904"	3/16"			x
1667	67mm (2.64")	1.6 x 2.64 = 4.224"	1/4"			x
1732	32mm (1.26")	1.7 x 1.26 = 2.142"	1/8"		x	x
1735	35mm (1.38")	1.7 x 1.38 = 2.346"	1/8"			x
1740	40mm (1.57")	1.7 x 1.57 = 2.669"	3/16"			x
1740/3	40ma (1.57")	1.7 x 1.57 = 2.669"	3/16"			x
1742/3	42mm (1.65")	1.7 x 1.65 = 2.805"	3/16"			x
1745/3	45mm (1.77")	1.7 x 1.77 = 3.009"	3/16"			x
1747	47mm (1.85")	1.7 x 1.85 = 3.145"	3/16"			x
1750	50mm (1.97")	1.7 x 1.97 = 3.349"	3/16"			x
1752/3	52mm (2.05")	1.7 x 2.05 = 3.485"	3/16"			x
1755	55mm (2.17")	1.7 x 2.17 = 3.689"	3/16"			x
1760	60mm (2.36")	1.7 x 2.36 = 4.012"	3/16"			x
1860	60mm (2.36")	1.8 x 2.36 = 4.248"	3/16"			x
1930	30mm (1.18")	1.9 x 1.18 = 2.242"	1/8"		x	x
1938	38mm (1.50")	1.9 x 1.50 = 2.850"	3/16"			x
1945	45mm (1.77")	1.9 x 1.77 = 3.363"	3/16"			x
1950	50mm (1.97")	1.9 x 1.97 = 3.743"	3/16"			x
1950/3	50mm (1.97")	1.9 x 1.97 = 3.743"	3/16"			x
1955	55mm (2.17")	1.9 x 2.17 = 4.123"	3/16"			x
1957	57mm (2.24")	1.9 x 2.24 = 4.256"	3/16"			x
1967	67mm (2.64")	1.9 x 2.64 = 5.016"	1/4"			x
2035	35mm (1.38")	2.0 x 1.38 = 2.760"	3/16"	x
2045	45mm (1.77")	2.0 x 1.77 = 3.540"	3/16"	x
2047	47mm (1.85")	2.0 x 1.85 = 3.700"	3/16"			x
2050	50mm (1.97")	2.0 x 1.97 = 3.964"	3/16"	x
2055	55mm (2.17")	2.0 x 2.17 = 4.340"	3/16"	x
2060	60mm (2.36")	2.0 x 2.36 = 4.720"	3/16"	x
2137/3	37mm (1.48")	2.1 x 1.48 = 3.108"	3/16"			x
2150/3	50mm (1.97")	2.1 x 1.97 = 4.137"	3/16"			x
2160	60mm (2.36")	2.1 x 2.36 = 4.956"	3/16"	x		x
2167/3	67mm (2.64")	2.1 x 2.64 = 5.544"	1/4"			x
2250	50mm (1.97")	2.2 x 1.97 = 4.334"	3/16"			x
2260	60mm (2.36")	2.2 x 2.36 = 5.192"	3/16"			x
2267	67mm (2.64")	2.2 x 2.64 = 5.808"	1/4"			x
2352	52mm (2.05")	2.3 x 2.05 = 4.715"	3/16"			x

M447	47mm (1.85")	1.4×1.85=2.590"	3/16"			x

P735	35mm (1.38")	1.7×1.38=2.346"	1/8"		x	x
P747	47mm (1.85")	1.7×1.85=3.145"	3/16"			x
P767/3	67mm (2.64")	1.7×2.64=4.488"	1/4"			x

V937/3	37mm (1.48")	1.9×1.48=2.812"	3/16"			x
V947/3	47mm (1.85")	1.9×1.85=3.515"	3/16"			x
V955/3	55mm (2.17")	1.9×2.17=4.123"	3/16"			x
V967/3	67mm (2.64")	1.9×2.64=5.016"	1/4"			x

X427	27mm (1.07")	1.4×1.07=1.498"	1/8"		x	x
X430	30mm (1.18")	1.4×1.18=1.652"	1/8"		x	x
X430R	30mm (1.18")	1.4×1.18=1.652"	1/8"		x	x
X431	3lmm (1.22")	1.4×1.22=1.708"	1/8"	x
X432	32mm (1.26")	1.4×1.26=1.764"	1/8"		x	x
X435	35mm (1.38")	1.4×1.38=1.932"	1/8"		x	x
X437/3	37mm (1.48")	1.4×1.48=2.072"	3/16"		x	x
X438	38mm (1.50")	1.4×1.50=2.100"	3/16"		x	x
X440	40mm (1.57")	1.4×1.57=2.198"	3/16"		x	x
X440/3	40mm (1.57")	1.4×1.57=2.198"	3/16"		x	x
X442	42mm (1.65")	1.4×1.65=2.310"	3/16"		x	x
X445	45mm (1.77")	1.4×1.77=2.478"	3/16"		x	x
X447	47mm (1.85")	1.4×1.85=2.590"	3/16"		x	x
X447R	47mm (1.85")	1.4×1.85=2.590"	3/16"		x	x
X447/3	47mm (1.85")	1.4×1.85=2.590"	3/16"		x	x
X448	48mm (1.90")	1.4×1.90=2.660"	3/16"		x	x
X450	50mm (1.97")	1.4×1.97=2.758"	3/16"		x	x
X450/3	50mm (1.97")	1.4×1.97=2.758"	3/16"			x
X452	52mm (2.05")	1.4×2.05=2.870"	3/16"			x
X452/3	52mm (2.05")	1.4×2.05=2.870"	3/16"			x
X455	55mm (2.17")	1.4×2.17=3.038"	3/16"			x
X455/3	55mm (2.17")	1.4×2.17=3.038"	3/16"			x
X457	57mm (2.24")	1.4×2.24=3.136"	3/16"			x
X457R	57mm (2.24")	1.4×2.24=3.136"	3/16"			x
X457/3	57mm (2.24")	1.4×2.24=3.136"	3/16"			x
X460	60mm (2.36")	1.4×2.36=3.304"	3/16"			x
X460/3	60mm (2.36")	1.4×2.36=3.304"	3/16"			x
X462	62mm (2.44")	1.4×2.44=3.416"	3/16"			x
X465	65mm (2.56")	1.4×2.56=3.584"	3/16"			x
X465R	65mm (2.56")	1.4×2.56=3.584"	3/16"			x
X467	67mm (2.64")	1.4×2.64=3.696"	1/4"			x
X470	70mm (2.76")	1.4×2.76=3.864"	1/4"			x
X47OR	70mm (2.76")	1.4×2.76=3.864"	1/4"			x
X470/3	70mm (2.76")	1.4×2.76=3.864"	1/4"			x
X472	72mm (2.84")	1.4×2.84=3.976"	1/4"			x
X482	82mm (3.22")	1.4×3.22=4.508"	1/4"			x
X548	48mm (1.90")	1.5×1.90=2.850"	3/16"			x
X560	60mm (2.36")	1.5×2.36=3.540"	3/16"			x
X572	72mm (2.84")	1.5×2.84=4.260"	1/4"			x
X632	32mm (1.26")	1.6×1.26=2.016	1/8"		x	x
X637	37nun (1.48")	1.6×1.48=2.368"	3/16"		x	x
X640	40mm (1.57")	1.6×1.57=2.512"	3/16"		x	x
X642	42mm (1.65")	1.6×1.65=2.640"	3/16"		x	x
X645	45mm (1.77")	1.6×1.77=2.832"	3/16"		x	x
X646	46mm (1.81")	1.6×1.81=2.896"	3/16"		x	x
X646/3	46mm (1.8")	1.6×1.81=2.896"	3/16"			x
X648	48mm (1.90")	1.6×1.9=3.040"	3/16"		x	x
X665	65mm (2.56")	1.6×2.56=4.096"	3/16"			x
X665R	65mm (2.56")	1.6×2.56=4.096"	3/16"			x
X670	70mm (2.76")	1.6×2.76=4.416"	1/4"			x

Y535	35mm (1.38")	2.125"	1/8"		x	x
Y547	47mm (1.85")	2.849"	3/16"			x
Y557	57mm (2.24")	3.449"	3/16"			x

Z50	50mm (1.97")	1.6×1.97=3.152"	3/16"	x
Z55	55mm (2.17")	1.6×2.17=3.472"	3/16"	x
Z60	60mm (2.36")	1.6×2.36=3.776"	3/16"	x

1.6	1.6"	1.8×1.6=2.880"	3/16"	x		x
1.6/3	1.6"	1.8×1.6=2.880"	3/16"			x
1.8	1.8"	1.8×1.8=3.240"	3/16"	x		x
2.0	2"	1.8×2=3.600"	3/16"	x
2.0/4	2"	1.8×2=3.600"	3/16"			x
2.1/3	2.1"	1.8×2.1=3.780"	3/16"			x
2.2	2.2"	1.8×2.2=3.960"	3/16"	x
2.4	2.4"	1.8×2.4=4.320"	3/16"	x
2.4/3	2.4"	1.8×2.4=4.320"	1/4"			x
2.6	2.6"	1.8×2.6=4.680"	3/16"	x
2.8	2.8"	1.8×2.8=5.040"	3/16"	x

Basic Propeller Recomendations

DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	3.5 cc	1337/3, 1640, 1938, X438
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	7.5 cc	X445, X447, X645, X646
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	11 cc	X447/3, X448, X452, X646/3, X648, X548
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	15 cc	X455, X455/3, X457,X457/3
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	22 cc	X460/3, X465, X665, 1465, 1662
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	25 cc	X460/3 X465, X665, 1465, 1662
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	30 cc	1470, 2167/3, X467, X470, X670, 1567
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	3.5 cc	X445, X640, X642
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	7.5cc	X450/3, X45213 X455, X457, X64613
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	11 cc	X457 X457/3, X460
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	15 cc	X460/3, X4i52′ X465, X665
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	22 cc	X467, X470, I567
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	25 cc	X470, X472, X670, 1567
DEEPVEE	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	30 cc	X472, X482, 1967

CATAMARAN	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	3.5 cc	1337/3, X438, X637
CATAMARAN	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	7.5 cc	X447, X645, X646
CATAMARAN	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	11 cc	1455, 1650, X452, X455
CATAMARAN	INBOARD	SUBMERGED PROP	15 cc	1457, 1460, 1860, X457, X460, X560
CATAMARAN	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	3.5 cc	X437/3, X440, X440/3, X640, X642
CATAMARAN	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	7.5 cc	X447, X447/3 X548, X646/3, X648
CATAMARAN	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	11 cc	X455/3, X45715, X460, X560
CATAMARAN	INBOARD	SURFACE PROP	15 cc	X460/3, X462, X465, X665

HYDRO / OUTRIGGER	INBOARD		3.5 cc	1450, 1650, 1945, X447 X447/3, X448
HYDRO / OUTRIGGER	INBOARD		7.5 cc	1455/3, 1457, 1457/3, 1745/3, 2950, 1950/3, 2.0/4, 2.1/3 X455, X455/3, X457
HYDRO / OUTRIGGER	INBOARD		11 cc	1662, 1667, 1760, 1957, 2160, 2260, X462, X465
HYDRO / SCALE	INBOARD		11 cc	1460, 1462, X457/3, X460, X560
HYDRO / OUTRIGGER	INBOARD		15 cc	1470, 1667, 2167 3, 2267, X470, X670
HYDRO / OUTRIGGER	INBOARD	STRAIGHTAWAY	3.5 cc	1750, 1950, 2047,
HYDRO / OUTRIGGER	INBOARD	STRAIGHTAWAY	7.5 cc	1760, 19571 2160, 2260
HYDRO / OUTRIGGER	INBOARD	STRAIGHTAWAY	11 cc	1860, 1967′ 2160′ 2167/3 2260
HYDRO / OUTRIGGER	INBOARD	STRAIGHTAWAY	15 cc	1967, 2167/3, 2267, 2.4/3

SPORT .40	HYDRO			X447/3, X448,X450, X450/3, X452/3,X548,X646,X646/3, X648

TUNNEL	OUTBOARD		3.5 cc	X437/3, X438, X440, X440/3, X637, X640, 1640, 1938
TUNNEL	OUTBOARD		7.5 cc	X447, X447/3, X448, X646 646/3 648
TUNNEL	OUTBOARD		11 cc	X450, X450/3, X452, X452/3, 1450, 1650, 1950/3, 2150/3
TUNNEL	OUTBOARD	NEW	13.5 cc	X455, X455/3, X457, X457/3

OUTRIGGER	OUTBOARD		3.5 cc	1740, 1740/3, 1742 3, 1.6/3
OUTRIGGER	OUTBOARD		7.5 cc	1745/3, 1750, 2150/3, 2.0/4
OUTRIGGER	OUTBOARD		11 cc	1752/3, 1755, 2.0/4, 2.1/3

THE FOLLOWING ARE SOME BASIC PROPELLER RECOMMENDATIONS FOR ELECTRIC BOATS. THE MAIN THING TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN SELECTING A PROP FOR YOUR ELECTRIC BOAT IS NOT TO OVER PROP. BIGGER IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER, PARTICULARLY ON AN ELECTRIC BOAT. IF YOU INSTALL TOO BIG A PROPELLER, THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE YOU WILL BURN UP YOUR ZIOTOR, SPEED CONTROL, ETC. THE BEST WAY !S TO START WITH THE SMALLEST PROPELLER RECOMMENDED, PUT THE BOAT OUT FOR A SHORT (20 – 30 SECONDS) RUN, BRING IT BACK IN AND FEEL THE NOTOR(S). IF YOU CAN HOLD ONTO THE MOTOR – NO PROBLEM, IF COOL YOU MAY BE ABLE TO INCREASE YOUR PROP SIZE. IF YOU CAN NOT HOLD ONTO THE MOTOR(S) YOU HAVE TOO BIG A PROP FOR YOUR BOAT/MOTOR/CELL COMBINATION AND YOU WOULD BE ADVISED TO TRY A SMALLER PROPELLER.

THE FOLLOWING BASIC GUIDELINES ARE FOR SURFACING APPLICATIONS UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

DIRECT DRIVE – SINGLE MOTOR (not less than 20 winds) – MAXIMUM 8 CELLS
		HYDRO	X427, X430, X432, X435
		OUTRIGGER	1732, 1735
		MONO (submerged)	0930, X427, X430
GEARED 2 : 1 – MAXIMUM 12 CELLS
	SINGLE MOTOR	HYDRO	X438, X440, X637, X640, X640
	TWIN MOTORS	HYDRO	X447, X44713, X645, X646,X646/3
	SINGLE MOTOR	OUTRIGGER	1740, 1740/3, 2137/3
	TWIN MOTORS	OUTRIGGER	1745/3, 1750, 2047, 2150/3

Propeller Range | Basic Propeller Recomendations

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Traxxas Nitro V

antoniop — Tue, 11 Jul 2006 12:06:32 +0000

A friend of mine bought a TRAXXAS Nitro Vee and we decided to get some experience with this model. And we had lots of problems…

The fun part…

This boat returned from the dead. The beginning was terrible. Lack of experience and some basic mistakes on the design of the boat, almost made us cry and scream…

What we know after 24 (yes, that’s twenty four) hours of running time

Now, after all the run time accumulated by the .12 engine we can take some conclusions about all the modifications made to the boat.

1.	Good cooling helped this engine survive 24 hours of run time. The first piston and liner only lasted about 1 hour of running at higher than adequate temperature. After a run, a drop of water would evaporate immediately. Now we can touch the head after a 20 minute run. The cooling capacity just wasn’t enough with the very thin tubing installed on the kit. Changing this is an absolute necessity. See Tips.
2.	The Octura propellers are much more efficient than the plastic prop included on the kit. Whether you have the .12 or the .15 engine you’ll get more performance from it with an X440 or X442 prop. However, higher the speed, bigger the problems. The boat can start to show some handling problems when turning to one side. Spins can start to happen. See the outdrive effect.
3.	The exhaust tubing will burn close to the metal manifold. It collapses a little bit and the gas temperature is very high on that location. There is no solution for this other than changing the tube with a more resistant one. We changed it for high temp silicone tubing for tuned pipes. It lasts a lot longer and it doesn’t collapse as much as the original.
4.	The fuel tank lid will crack. Have at least one replacement at hand. Nothing is more frustrating than returning home just because that little insignificant part doesn’t work anymore. The price is low and you’ll be prepared.
5.	Some cracks will start to appear below the muffler, caused by the high temperature. Just try to keep the hull in one piece. A layer of epoxy below the muffler will avoid severe cracking. Or you can just put a tuned pipe on the boat and see it fly… Chances are that you can cause cracks somewhere else on the hull
6.	The little engine is resilient. It only shows some erosion of the chrome layer on the liner close to the exhaust port. This is perfectly natural for this run time. This running time would be equivalent to 144*10 minute flights on an airplane engine (if it doesn’t fall from the sky long before…) with the rpm on the 10.000-13.000 range, usually at half throttle most of the time and only the good ones show some health with this kind of use. It’s really a pretty good engine.

Some technical info

After some modifications, the boat became an incredible speed demon. We are running it on the limits. The steerable outdrive and the speed will make it spin if we don’t take care. But in the end, we can get 20 minutes of running at full throttle and lots of adrenaline. What is amazing with this boat is the fact that it was a slow and sluggish boat with the standard propeller. An OCTURA X440 turned it into a fast and fun boat. No more launching to reach plane. It will plane with no help in just a couple of meters. However, the outdrive effect is amplified with the higher thrust we get from the prop.

On a monohull which banks when turning, a steerable outdrive will point downwards and lift the back of the boat, causing it to spin out.

And now the problems…

Day 1
	The engine wouldn’t rev up. The problem was related with the waterproofing we did. It was so effective that the engine couldn’t breathe. Some isolation was removed and it started to accelerate OK.
Day 2
	The engine would stop dry for no apparent reason.The muffler was loose. The screws that hold the muffler are to short, about 3mm. They were switched and larger screws now hold the muffler. The engine stopped because the pressure on the tank fell to a level in which the carb couldn’t get any fuel.
	Then the pull starter recoil got loose. We put it in place but know we have to be extra careful because the cord is a little bit shorter.
Day 3
	The pressure tap got loose.

Here we started to understand that we have to check all the screws before going to the water.

This is the boat at full speed with the original propeller. Below is a photo of the boat with the OCTURA and you see the difference…

The first 3 days

As you can see our first three days at the lake were not very rewarding. We had all sorts of problems because of inexperience and mechanical failures. The boat seems to be almost tuned, but we will only know when everything is checked and rechecked.
This boat made me think that this kind of hobby can be very disappointing.

And it was…

The reason for these problems was very simple. The cooling system had very thin tubing, and on the first day we inflicted damage to the piston and liner equivalent to a complete year of use. The engine stopped over and over due to overheating. A complete remake of the cooling system was enough for longer and cooler runs.

Can you tell the difference looking at the pictures below? Do you see what a good propeller can do?

A new piston and liner revealed what we already knew. They were ruined!
Now the boat is fun ! It gets on plane easily and the speed is much higher than we ever saw (even on the first day).

However the original propeller cavitates enough to overheat the engine when trying to get on plane. An Octura X440 cured this.

A TRAXXAS .15 is waiting to be installed. When the .12 dies.

The marketing guys (I’ve been one of them for a couple of years, and I knew how to turn serious shortcomings into thundering victories) never cease to amaze me: TRAXXAS says that they put the best propeller on the boat…(look at the pictures and judge for yourself) I don’t think so. The original propeller is really bad, and makes a fun boat become a nightmare. The expense that my friend had with the boat was enough to buy a first class hull and engine. If only the cooling system and original propeller were better, we would never had the idea that the boat is worthless. For a couple of dollars more TRAXXAS is ruining their own reputation.

When I read the reviews about the boat I wonder if we are special (accident prone) or if the reviews are biased to please the maker of the boat. The last review I saw had only good points and no inconvenients (I wonder how they did it). The rec.rc.models.water guys have very different opinions.

Tips

Substitute the cooling system tubing

This is probably the most serious shortcoming of this boat. If you run it for some time, with a leaner mixture than the ideal is almost sure that the engine will overheat. If it does, your piston and liner will be ruined pretty quick. In our case it just took a couple of hours. After that the engine would not rev up and the carb settings were impossible to adjust.
The plastic pickup tube was switched for a brass tube (4mm inner diameter) mounted on the same plastic base. Just cut the old plastic pickup and drill a hole a little bigger than 4mm on the plastic base. Insert the 4mm brass tube with a 45º cut on the lower extremity. Change the tubing for a larger diameter silicone tube and you’re done.
There was another modification we made on this – The hot water now leaves on the side of the boat instead of traveling to the rear of the boat. Less tube, less friction = more water traveling on the system = more cooling capacity. Now the water is ejected about 40 cm to the left side of the boat when running at full speed. Even with the RTS system running some water passes through the head.

Change the propeller

If you want good performance, you need to change the original propeller. This boat had a molded propeller impossible to remove from the shaft. 2 new shafts were made on a lathe – one for 1/8" propellers and other for 3/16" propellers. Because we use OCTURAS above X435 we just use the bigger one. I understand that OCTURA makes an adapter for this boat – PN OCGCSS (I suspect that someone at OCTURA tried the boat and found the same problems we did).

Change the turning fin (if you want that little extra speed)

We got rid of the turning fin. It makes the boat unstable when turning right. It’s not placed correctly (perpendicular to the V and aligned with the hull strakes) and causes the curve radius to be too big. When we force it the boat spins and leaves plane.
Additionally because of incorrect position causes drag making the boat turn right. We have to adjust radio trim to the left and instead of having a perfectly aligned thrust line, we have opposing forces instead of forward thrust. A new Prestwich Model turn fin will be installed correctly (perpendicular to the V of the hull).

Review

I like
	The boat comes assembled and almost ready to run. This version is the basic version without radio, the complete version comes with a TRAXXAS 2 channel AM system, and that’s the only difference between the two versions. Excellent decals.
	The total time spent for finishing was around 3 hours.
	The appearance of the boat and all the details reveal a well thought boat. The shaft is lubricated with oil from the exhaust, the motor mount and all the interior of the boat has small details that really pleased me. The best feature is the RTS (Return to Shore System).If you get stuck in the middle of the lake, you just switch it on and calmly return to shore. All the nitro boats have this disease sometimes…
What I didn’t like after running it…
	The propeller is bad. It cavitates too much and the engine can easily take a larger one which will stop cavitation due to a much higher efficiency.
	The cooling system has very thin tubing that will surely cause overheating, with the results described earlier on this page (piston and liner completely ruined)
In conclusion
	As you can see, if you change this couple of things before running the boat, all the problems that we had will never happen. If it is your first boat, is almost certain that you have the same problems before experience helps. It can be too late, so please beware.

Present config.

Motor	Traxxas .12
Fuel	10% nitro, 12 % synthetic oil, 4% castor
Propeller	OCTURA X440 (surface piercing)
Receiver	Multiplex UNI 9
Throttle	Multiplex MS 12
Steering	Multiplex MS 11
Radio pack	Dry Cells with voltage regulator (Home made)

The MULTIPLEX MS11 and MS12 servos

Size HxLxW [mm] 36x40x19
Weight 44 g
Torque [Ncm] 26
Rotation Speed to 40° [sec] 0,21

MS11 is waterproof and MS12 is not. If the servo (MS12) starts to behave strangely, is almost sure that it has water inside. Keep an hair dryer at hand…

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Prestwich Targa

antoniop — Thu, 15 Oct 1998 11:40:00 +0000

The Targa in all it’s splendor

The red paint is LustreKote and the yellow paint is just plain car spray paint. What do you think? Ain’t that nice?

This is an excellent boat for 7 cells direct drive. The hull is fiberglass, very light and sharp. It comes assembled, so I had to cut the hatch with a Minicraft. I had to make some adjustments because the cutting disc went too far a couple of times.

There is no motor mount on the kit, so I made one from 3mm ply. It is easily disassembled for motor changes.
The hardware consists of a flex shaft, with Teflon liner, steel rudder and carbon fiber struts.

After putting everything in place I started to think that this boat may need flotation. Oops! Everything out and there goes a piece of styrofoam to the front of the boat.
Flotation test. No good. Instead of looking to the instruction sheet I just set the location of the components my way (doing it our way is not always a good thing…). Everything out again and reallocation of the batteries and speed controller was enough.

It was a good test for the detachable engine and servo mount. It passed the test with flying colors (flying? I hope so, but controlled…if not I’ll adapt a pair of winglets and a rudder

Building

A couple of details of the boat construction.
The detachable ply motor mount, the cooling coil and the coupler.
In these pictures you can also see the boat stand made from 3 and 5mm ply.

The white "line" around the opening is made with epoxy and micro balloons. The disc cutter went a little too far when I cut the hatch so I had to correct the cut line.

The motor and mount in place. After some disappointing experiences with my first electric, water cooling is installed with a cooling aluminum coil and brass tubes on the brushes.

The ply tray supports the steering servo (Hitec 80 MG) and the Multiplex Pico 4/5 receiver (really small…).
The ply tray consists of two vertical supports in which the horizontal support slides, making it fully detachable.

The drive and rudder assembly is carbon fiber. On the left side of the transom is the water exit tube. The water pickup is located on the bottom of the hull (near the center of the V) with a 45º angle.
Turn fin on the right side and a highly polished propeller (about 2 hours of work).

Here you can see the speed controller, the cooling coil and the receiver pack in place. The space is just enough for all the items that need to go inside the boat. Final weight is 1150 gr. Here are the dimensions of the beast (??).

Length (hull)	500mm (19.68 in)
Length (hull and strut)	570mm (22.44 in)
Width	150mm (5.9 in)
Weight	1150 gr

You can see a ply lip on the right side of the hatch opening for supporting the hatch (I will install it around the opening) . A little of silicone sealant over it will guarantee that no water will get inside. Always expect the worst because if it happens you’ll be ready.

The front pieces maintain the hatch in place and two small locks at the rear will do the rest.

A general view of the interior arrangement. The coil was not installed and you can see the D3 17 turn. The ply plate to which the motor is attached slides up allowing the motor to be changed in a couple of minutes. Only the vertical rails are glued to the hull.

The final result. I applied all the decals I had. In this photo You can see the big propeller used (X440). I changed the advance on the D3 from 30º aprox to 10º, reducing current draw from 2.7A to 2.07A (free running). The running time was 2:30 min. The top speed is a little bit slower but the acceleration is awesome. I tested a 438 and the run time with the 1.7 pack was 3:10 min. With the X440 it is between 3:30 and 3:45.

It seems that the right setup is the one I have now, but I’ll do further testing with other motors and advance settings to get those mythical 4 minutes.

The batteries were a big surprise. I bought a 2000 mAh for this boat expecting good running times and good punch. The results led me to believe that the old reliable Sanyo 1700 mAh is far superior to the 2000.

1. Accepts more charge
2. Better (or same) duration
3. Cooler at the end of the run
4. Charges faster
5. Cheaper
6. More punch

Knowing this, would you pay almost the double per cell? Me neither!

Trinity D3, 17 Turn Triple

This is the motor I’m using in this boat. Epoxy balanced armature, special can design.
After some tests with the Whatt Meter, the results are as follows :

It draws 7 Amp and 80 Watt free running (with the shaft connected, 2.7 with no hardware), and 27 Amp and 200 Watt when on the water. With the 2000 pack the theoretical run time is 4.4 minutes. Not bad (theory is always very nice…).

Timing 30º 20º 10º

D3 17 Turn Triple

Free running load 2.7A 2.5A 2.07A

X438 duration / load 2:50 / NA 3:10 / 21A

X440 duration / load 2:30 / 27A 3:10 / NA 3:30 – 3:45 / NA

Trinity Speed Gems Quartz, 19 Turn Double

The backup motor for the boat. I used it with the Bud Light and it melted the top bearing support. No wonder, I was using 12 cells and even with water cooling on the brushes the strain was to much for it. This time is going to run on 7 cells, direct drive.

Timing	Factory Timing
Trinity Speed Gems Quartz, 19 Turn Double
Free running load	2.3 A
X438 duration / load
X440 duration / load	4:00 / NA

Running

Day 1 (02-05-1998)

A half throttle turn. The boat sticks to the water and the rooster tail is like this

The first run was awsome! The boat is light (1150gr) and I was expecting good speed but it was a total surprise. The speed is comparable to the Hot Shot! It turns amazingly fast and the wetted area is really small. I was using a 1.7 Amp Sanyo SCRC pack and a 2.0 Amp Sanyo pack. The 1.7 was sluggish accepting charge (resting for a long time) but the performance improved with the successive charges ad discharges.
Nothing got loose, nothing burned and each run was better than the previous one. Until the end of the day!

We had the 1.7 pack peaked and ready to go, and during the day the performance was steadily improving. The last run was made by my friend (the one that owns the Traxxas Nitro Vee) and he is used to a V hull with a steerable outdrive (you need to have motor to turn).
He opened the throttle as we were doing all day, but the pack was in prime shape. The boat jumped and turned to the right (torque roll) and he compensated to the left. The boat made a 180º turn at full speed and went to the middle of the lake like a demented chicken on steroids and the next second it was upside down in the middle of the lake!
He was so startled with the sudden brute speed of the boat that he didn’t remember to cut the motor. He was staring at the boat with a stupefied look on his face asking "what happened? why did the boat go so fast? what did I do?".
We retrieved the boat and the air bubble inside prevented the water to get in. So I was next and there was enough power on the pack. I was being really careful and the thing was going like mad and on each turn I was even more amazed with the speed of such a small boat. To finalize it, I was so stunned with the speed of the boat, that when coming to shore I just forgot that the boat doesn’t leave plane immediately and instead of cutting the motor sooner, I just made it plane out of the water and stuck the rudder in the sand!!

The boat is superb, and makes me wonder how is it like to run these things (several guys trying to get the inside lane) with even more performance and speed!

Day 2 (09-05-1998)

It is as fun as it seems from these pictures…You probably know by now that my other hobby is photography.

An excellent day, very calm and that lake was a perfect mirror. The motor advance was reduced to 10º in order to experiment with new prop and timing configuration. The first pack was not fully charged but the duration was fairly similar with the first day (2:30 with the X438). However I noticed some cavitation just before getting into plane. I remembered that with the X440 this didn’t happen.

A charged 1.7 pack was installed and we had a run of 3:10, still with cavitation and slight less acceleration. I installed the X440 and the cavitation disappeared with the duration above 3:30. You can see from some of these pictures the speed this little thing reaches.
Because of handling I reduced the rudder throw, to avoid spinning when over steered.

At the end of the day the brass tubes soldered to the brush housings got loose and I had a minor endbell meltdown. It’s repaired and ready to go.

And the fun goes on!

and on…

and on…on that lagoon

Day 3 (10-05-1998)

The prop shaft was moved up a little bit and the turn fin rotated forward. Now the boat turns smoothly at full speed with no strange movements. The turn fin was causing some uplift making the boat move strangely on tight turns.
There was a guy at the lake with an 3.5 cm3 outrigger (not very well tuned, with an unbalanced and unsharpened prop) and my little devil was faster than the rigger. He looked at the electric as if it was a toy. How wrong he was…

The running time is now consistently above 3:15 minutes at full speed. This is really a fast electric. Silent and fast.

Review

Excellent hull. The few minor flaws were corrected with epoxy and lots of micro balloons. It is a two step hull.
It’s very light and sharp. The strakes are really well carved with sharp angles. Covered with red gelcoat.

The hardware consists of rudder, flex shaft, liner, coupler, prop strut and prop mount and rudder mount in carbon fiber. Tough and light.
Velcro strips are included for battery fixing and the rudder pushrod and snap links also come with the kit.

There is no mount for motor or servo, so I had to make these mounts from ply. The motor mount has two rails in which a plate with the motor attached will fit. This will allow changing the motor with minor complications. The angle of the motor can be adjusted easily.

After all the hardware was installed the rudder seemed huge. Too big to be adequate. Dave Marles (the man behind Prestwich Model Centre) explained me the reason for such a big rudder.
I believe I have to be extra careful with the rudder travel. If the boat is fast on the straight to much rudder can cause some problems…

Present config.

Motor	Trinity Team Epoxy 16 Turn Double, Trinity D3 17 Turn Trinity Speedgems 2 19 Turn
SpeedControl	Astro Flight 212D ESC
Propeller	Octura X440 (Sharpened and polished until I can see my reflection on it)
Receiver	Multiplex Pico 4/5
Steering	Hitec HS80 MG
Radio pack	Home made Panasonic 800 mAh
Motor pack	Sanyo 1700 mAh 7 cell or Sanyo 2000 mAh 7 cell

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Dumas Hot Shot Sprint 3.5

antoniop — Tue, 24 Feb 1998 12:20:14 +0000

A cat with an attitude

Some details of the Hot Shot 3.5.
The painting scheme was really simple to do and the results looks ok. Vinyl decals applied over this immaculate piece of work. The painting resulted in a glass like finish.

DPI motor cover for 3.5 motors. This cover is suited to this engine (K&B 3.5) and comes in two halves, joined with CA and painted. It adds to the scale looks of the boat.

My motto is – If it looks good, it runs good. (isn’t it?)

Under the hood. The HITEC 605, HITEC HS 100 the Futaba F118 and a 1200mAh pack fit perfectly on the radio compartment. It is completely water proof as experience shown. The lid is sealed with tape.

Running

Day 1 (27-12-1997)
	I was expecting a lot of problems with this engine. It’s a high performance engine and I’m running it with 10% nitro, and with high performance airplane engines the pains are endless. Guess what ! The engine started easy, revved a lot and the boat runs like mad. The carburetor is simplicity at its best. No fuss, no mess. Just a small needle, when adjusted as the manual states will give you plenty of control and power. If I thought that the Heatwave is fast, then this is amazingly fast. The handling is a surprise. Precise, fast turning, hands off at full speed. No trimming required. This boat is by no means a starter boat. You have to be prepared for intense sensations and fast reaction time. If you have trouble turning when the boat comes towards you, then get a slower one. Unless the lake is huge, you hardly get a second chance. Your boat will become a plow. It was so rewarding that I went to the lake in the morning and in the afternoon, after a extra fast lunch. I couldn’t get enough. Now I know what they mean about this being a first class, competition capable boat.
Day 2
	The motor break in period is over. I’ve leaned the needle a little bit and the thing goes like crazy. The 3 bladed Octura was replaced by a Prather S215 (I wonder how K&B thinks that we can a put a prop like that with the pickup tube being where it is?). The day came to an end with 3 of 4 screws of the motor mount being lost. A strange turn (with the engine wobbling) made me throttle back to see what was happening. The last screw was almost loose. Time to go home and order screws from the US (Yes, it is impossible to get them in Portugal…). A couple of weeks waiting.
Day 3 (24-2-1998)
	My first flip. The wind caught the boat from 45º behind when exiting a turn, and there it goes. In flight barrel roll and fell inverted. I admit that some of my planes don’t fly this easy… However, it was no big deal. The radio compartment was completely dry and I just drained the water inside the cowl and went to the water again. This boat is running faster everyday. The lake is getting smaller and smaller. A turn at high speed. I didn’t expect this kind of handling. Perfect! I’m not quite sure how fast I’m going. This is a problem that will happen with all my boats. There’s no one else playing at my pond (or any other pond that I know of). I’m probably the champion in the street where I live! I would like to compare it with other boats of the same class. The only ones I saw were .21 cats but 6 years ago, and they were not very well tuned.

Review

This boat has a very good ABS hull and first quality hardware. The hull comes pre joined and only the underside of the cowl chin needs to be glued and some filling applied. I used epoxy with micro balloons. Very light and easily sanded. The radio compartment is waterproof and enough for the radio system. I use an 8 channel receiver (that’s right, to many channels, but that’s what I had at hand) and a 1200mAh battery. They have plenty of space.

I chose to paint the hull with yellow and red spray paints (fuel proof). The red paint is LustreKote and the yellow paint is a resin resistant to fuel. The results were excellent and the glow of the surface is too good to be believed.
The trim applied (vinyl letters) was made on a professional cutting system with the original graphics drawn in a PC.
(OK, I have a "little" publicity of my employer, but anyway he paid for the boat . PS – I did not receive any fee from Mercury motors…

As I said, the kit comes complete with the exception of a fuel filter, radio system and motor cover. The fuel tank is a Sullivan slant tank and all silicone tubing is provided.
The motor mount is Dubro (I believe) and all the pull-pull cable system, snap links and linkage bearing come on the kit.
The only thing you really need is the fuel filter, in this case I chose to use a Sullivan filter.
The boat was completed in 6 hours work (even with the paint job included) and the result is a sleek boat that suggests pure speed and performance.

Present configuration

Motor	K&B 3.5 Outboard Gold Carburetor (fast and furious…)
Fuel	10% nitro, 12 % synthetic oil, 4% castor
Propeller	Octura X440/3
Receiver	Futaba F118
Throttle	Hitec HS100 Mini
Steering	Hitec 605BB
Radio pack	Futaba Ripmax 1200 mAh

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Kyosho Heatwave

antoniop — Sun, 07 Dec 1997 12:25:56 +0000

Inboard engine catamaran

	The boat accelerates. The front points upwards and the wet area of the hull is reduced to the last step.
	A high speed turn. The outside sponson barely touches the water.

I wanted to try a calm nitro boat. My preference is clearly the cats, and I wanted a complete boat (all in the box – upgrading and changing will arrive later, I’m sure), so I had a limited choice.

This boat is really attractive. Nice graphics, perfect hull (Kyosho quality is unbeaten), ABN engine and a complete set of hardware.

If there is a boat in which everything fits perfectly, this is the one. The hull is so perfect and sharp that I’m sure it will run nicely. It doesn’t promise to be very fast, but other engines fit on that space (.21). I’ll run it with the original engine and then we’ll see…

The boat is fun. It handles as if on rails with tight turns at high speed. It comes with two turn fins and trim plates that really help the handling.

However, the vibration is enough to loose all screws in the hull, so a locking product should be used on all of them. This boat can be described as a high performance screw ejector…

Tips

Get rid of the original propeller!

If you want to get the most out of this boat, substitute the original propeller as soon as you can. It is a plastic propeller equivalent to an Octura X460, but the effectiveness of plastic propellers is much lower than their metal counterparts. The plastic flexes under pressure and they loose grip, causing the boat to run slower.
The sport boat manufacturers do things on the safe side. Imagine a fast boat (really fast) on the hands of a beginner…
Anyway, the boat goes as fast as you want (that’s why we have a throttle stick…). My experience tells me that you can put some more load on the engine installing a bigger prop. Unfortunately the choice of 4mm propellers is not very good (unless you are in Europe and can get Mocom props), so a small adaptation is needed for using 3/16" propellers. See below.

How can you use 3/16" propellers?

Cut a piece of brass tube with 4mm inner diameter (this boat is all metric, and the propeller shaft is 4mm) and with the length of the prop boss. You’ll see that the outer diameter of the tube is a little higher than 3/16". Using a lathe, a Minicraft or Dremel tool and trim the excess material till the brass tube fits tightly on the inside of the propeller. Now you can use all sorts of excellent propellers on the boat.

How to avoid problems with the motor mount?

After some attempts of engine starting (beware, the engine is very prone to flooding), the engine mounts on the tub tend to break (especially the ones on the right side, looking from the front of the boat). I noticed this problem too late, when the engine started to vibrate like hell. You can prevent this applying some fiberglass and epoxy before mounting the hull, over the holes where the rubber mounting blocks go. This reinforcement is more than enough for avoiding this unpleasant problem.

Prepare to substitute the plastic tank mount.

After a major overhaul of the boat I was going to put the tank in place, when I noticed a crack on the tank mount. A close inspection revealed that this mount was completely covered with cracks (I think that the heat inside the boat does this kind of stuff to the ABS). I made a new mount from the excess ply of the base of the boat. It was brushed with epoxy for fuel proofing and the tank was mounted from below the mount (or else the hatch will not fit, because this mount is thicker than the original one).

Substitute the bushings for ball bearings.

This was a crucial modification in two respects. The friction is much lower than with the bronze bushings, and the fact that the shaft fits tightly on the lower bearing, avoids water getting inside the hull by the shaft, and believe me, this means a lot of water…
You’ll need two types of bearings – 2 units of 4mm x 7mm flanged, and 2 4mm x 8mm. Boca Bearings and Duratrax make this kind of ball bearings but the Duratrax are much cheaper (there must be a difference, isn’t it?)

Be careful with the clearance of the thrust bearings on the shaft!

You need to be extra careful with this clearance. There must be at least 1 mm clearance between the end of the shaft and the inner part of the outdrive. If not, when you turn, the friction will slow down the engine noticeably, and the plastic part of the outdrive may melt (even underwater, and it happened to me). When correctly set up, the loss of speed will only be due to dynamic causes (hull drag) and not to unwanted side effects. If the friction is too high the pin on the universal joint may break !

Running

Day 1
	The engine starts easily. I notice a high vibration in low RPM. After checking all the moving parts, it seems that it’s a characteristic of this engine. Later, after reading a review of the boat my suspicion was confirmed. I had some problems with engine tuning (a new engine , a new boat, what could I expect?). The three runs were made with a moderate acceleration just to break in the engine.
Day 2
	The engine is running OK. The speed is lower than expected. But the handling of the boat is too good to be believed. The jumps are very "elegant" and the stability is awesome.
Day 3 (15-Nov-97)
	After reading a review of the boat and with the results shown when a decent propeller was installed on the Nitro Vee, I decided to go to a larger propeller (OCTURA X440/3). The boat comes with a plastic propeller equivalent to an OCTURA X640. WOW, what a difference! The speed increases amazingly and the boat turns fast and on rails. If the jumps were nice on the second day, now they’re even better. I’ve seen worse flying planes… I made a few runs with (against) the Nitro Vee and on the turns the speed is more or less the same, but on the straight the Nitro Vee can’t keep up. I still have the engine on the rich side and I’m sure I can get more out of this beauty. I’ve installed a two blade Prather S220 highly sharpened (I made a few finger cuts just installing it). This prop has only 2 blades, but the diameter and pitch are 43 mm and 66mm which would make it roughly equivalent to an OCTURA X543 (if it exists).
Day 4 (22-Nov-97)
	The new prop gives even better performance. The engine revs easily with this prop and the speed is higher. A good 2 blade prop is very effective. I’ll try a Octura X645 to see if the performance increases with it. Check all the grub screws before going to the water. I’ve lost one, and it was tight (I thought it was…).
Day 5 (7-Dec-97)
	A fun day until all radio control was lost… I was really lucky because this happened in a tight turn. The controls freezed on this position at full speed. I was unsatisfied with the duration of the runs (6 to 7 min.) but seeing the boat go round and round for 5 minutes seems like an eternity… Finally the turns started to be disturbed by the boat’s own track and it stopped on some bushes close to the water. No harm done. A check at the radio system at home revealed a crystal with random problems. A cheap piece of equipment could have cost me an entire boat and a couple of months waiting for a new one to be finished. And this is unbearable.

Present config.

Motor	Kyosho .18
Fuel	10% nitro, 16 % synthetic oil, 4% castor
Propeller	Prather S220 (sharpened like a blade)
Receiver	Futaba F118
Throttle	Cirrus CS90BB low profile
Steering	Cirrus CS90BB low profile
Radio pack	Futaba Ripmax 1200 mAh

Review

	The construction is very simple. The superb hull is complete and the shape and details are excellent. This is a two step hull and the sharpness of every strake is amazing. This is not an ordinary ABS hull!
	The tub for the engine is screwed in place with lots of self tapping screws. I found that they are "ejected" with the vibration…
	The hull was painted with white resin paint just to match with the hatch color which is substantially different from the hull color (the hull has a yellow coloration)
	The shaft installations was made after the engine installation, just to be sure that everything is aligned before gluing. The bronze bushings were changed by ball bearings I bought from BOCA Bearings. Two (flanged) on the extremities of the main shaft and two on the outdrive.
	The decals were applied with soapy water, and I the result is outstanding. Very good set of decals (there are so many decals that you’ll need a couple of hours to put them all in place)
	On top of the engine tub, comes the radio box. Easy fit, and again a lot of self tapping screws to hold it. The radio box cover is also hold in place with screws (these Japanese guys want to be sure…)
I like
	The hull, oh boy what a piece of work!
	The handling of the boat. The double turn fins make it impossible to spin. Just open the throttle and do whatever you want at full speed (and with the prop I have is really high speed)
I don’t like
	The turn fins are hold in place with 3 screws each (again…). Well, the holes are a endless source of water to the interior of the boat. And I mean a lot of water. So, be sure to seal them with silicone on the inside and on the outside. The method is simple. Before putting them in place, spread a fair amount of silicone sealant on the area of the fin (even over the three holes) and screw them in place. When the sealant is dry no more water will get inside the hull through those holes. However, the big amount of water gets into the boat through the propeller shaft. If you put the original bushings, lots of water will get inside the hull. The clearance between the lower bushing and the shaft is enough for the water to go up the shaft into the engine tub. The pressure will cause this. Then the water drains to the inside of the hull through the tub hole for the shaft. If you change the lower bushing by a ball bearing with less clearance (virtually none), no more water will get in.
	The engine tub cracks on each screw hole. Cyano won’t work. Unless you use a radical method to fix them (like fiberglass and epoxy), this tub will be worthless after a few hours of vibration. Take care.
	And that’s all folks…

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MRP Bud Light

antoniop — Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:15:00 +0000

	This is the MRP Bud Light. 24" ABS hull, electric outboard (flex shaft) 12 cell (original). My version has an updated set of decals (new Bud Light logo) It looks good doesn’t it?
	First run May 1st 97 and it’s really fun! The speed is incredible and the handling excellent. It gets on plane in about 1 meter and runs very fast. Check the review and read about all the headaches I had with it.
	Edwin Cintron (WEBDESIGNERS@PRTC.NET) sent me this beautiful version of the MRP Bud Light Tunnel. It is a replica of a F1 tunnel hull that exists and races in the American Championship.
	The speed controller Tekin 432M 4 to 32 Cells, water cooled and able to handle twin 05 motors. One of the best Marine ESC’s around.

Running

Day 1

I’m eager to run this beauty. I don’t have experience with boats, but how hard can it be?
Harder than I thought! The boat is fast and the water is a little rough. The turns have to be made with some care, or the boat makes wild moves on the end of the turns. Some adjustments are needed. Propeller depth, outboard angle etc.
It was a good experience after all.

Day 2

Not so good. The motor wires got too hot and the top of the motor had some minor damage. I’ve read about fast electrics getting hot, but this is ridiculous. The boat just stops in the middle of the lake – batteries exhausted? – No, the solder of the motor wires and of the capacitor on the brushes melts. This motor reached at least 300º Celsius. On the lake I don’t have a soldering iron… Returning home

Day 3

Motor rebuilt, everything checked and rechecked, and here we go. After 1 minute the boat starts to behave erratically. Refuses to stop. A closer inspection reveals an unsoldered wire on the speed controller. Again no iron .
Let’s go home and repair it.

Definitely I’m going to install water cooling because I want to run the boat with the engine cowling. This will include a Prestwich Model Centre Cooling coil (aluminum) and a couple of brass tubes soldered to the brush housings. The pickup tube is brass and mounted just behind the propeller (like the K&B outboards).

The speed controller, isn’t too precise and sometimes the boat refuses to stop!!!. Some adjustments were made to the SC and now it is acceptable.

This is showing some weaknesses on the various components.
One of the things that characterize modelers is persistence. Next weekend I’ll be back.

Day 4

A couple of brass tubes were soldered to the brush housings and a pickup tube installed just behind the prop. No coil yet, but the results are promising.
This boat has clearance for a 32 mm propeller (Octura X432) and I’m running it with a X430.The speed is very good, better than the original propeller (plastic Octura X431?, yes that’s what the propeller has written on).

The complete cooling system. It consists of two pickup tubes (one over the prop and other on the left side of the transom), a cooling coil and two brass tubes soldered to the brush housing. The water flows with a high rate on both tubes (4mm inner diameter).
This assures a normal temperature at the end of each run.

First run with brush cooling.
The motor handles perfectly the entire run with a normal temperature at the end of the run. The cooling coil will add even more cooling capacity to the system.

Day 5

The motor is gone! RIP
After the end of the first run the motor started to smoke. Thick white smoke. The switch unit stuck and the top of the motor melted. The motor stalled, the wires got to hot and so on. Total destruction. I wonder what would have happened if this was an inboard? Total catastrophe?

Day 6

First run with the Trinity Quartz 19T and Tekin 432. The first run finished early due to another endbell melt down. I’m starting to get really fed up with this thing. This time I didn’t install cooling on the brushes and it seems that’s the only cooling that matters.
The motor was rebuildable but now I don’t trust it anymore. I will not know if the next fail (because there will be a next fail) is due to the damage inflicted on the first run or due to the excessive voltage on the motor.
Back to testing again. I’m starting to wonder if I should install a reliable motor like an Astro 05. I’ll call this boat the "Flying Money"…

June 97

I’ve lost confidence on the Trinity Quartz. The top ball bearing shifted a little bit causing the brushes to stay in contact with the same pole on the commutator. And you know what this means – short circuits all the time. The run time of the batteries dropped drastically to 1 minute… and their temperature at the end of a run is way too much.

If the throttle is opened fast, the boat jumps right out of the water!

A new motor was installed – Trinity Speed Gems Diamond 12 turn double. I’m running it with 6 or 7 cells and now I think I’ve found the right setup.
The boat is faster than it used to, the motor is cold after each run (I’m still using the cooling coil and the brush cooling because it’s better to be safe than sorry…) and the run time is a little more than 3 minutes with a 1500 mAh pack.

Now it’s fun! I’ve a lot of packs to use and the fun is even greater.

The batteries

I had a couple of problems with this boat. This experience made me a more knowledgeable modeler about electrics. Read all about it.

Present config.

Motor	Trinity SpeedGems Diamond, 12 Turn Double
Speed Control	Tekin 432-M ESC
Propeller	Octura X430, X432
Receiver	Futaba RF115
Steering	Futaba S3001
Radio pack	Futaba 1000 mAh
Motor pack	Duratrax 1500 mAh 6/7 cell or Sanyo 1700 mAh 6/7 cell

Review

	The construction is easy. The hull and deck comes pre assembled, and I only had to check for flaws on the glue. Some gaps were found and filled with thick CA.
	A ply plate was added to the interior of the hull, were the motor mount is fixed. Instead of using the self tapping screws provided I’ve used allen screws with nylon lock nuts on the inside.
	The excess ABS on the hull cowling, engine cowling and canopy was cut with a cutting disc and a Minicraft drill. Everything was trimmed with sand paper. No problems here.
	Mounting the drive system and motor is not a problem. Very easy installation. A lubricant is included for the flex shaft.
	The decals were applied with the described method (soapy water), and I the result is outstanding.
	Finally, the radio box. The instructions are not very clear in this point. The text is OK, but the pictures are small and unclear. Only the back of the servos has support on the box, so I had to glue a wood stick for the front of the servos. The speed controller is for installation on a standard servo, but I used a micro servo. I had the rethink the method of installation, lowering the servo in the box, so that the control is pressed against the side of the box.
I like
	The building was made in a full day. Only the motor cover and canopy were painted. The hull is perfectly assembled with minor details to adjust. Excellent decals.
	The handling of the boat is perfect. Tracks straight, and when on plane the speed is high. The turns are tunnel style – sliding with no inclination on the hull. A turning fin is a must and the kit comes with an included aluminum turning fin.
I don’t like
	I just don’t like the speed controller. It has three positions – stopped, fast and very fast. Almost no control. I’ll put an Tekin 432-M.
	The radio compartment is just an ABS box without the support for the front of the servos. A spruce stick was glued to the inside of the box for supporting the servos.

Tips

By: Andy Hartz
Date: 11.13.97
Tip: Tired of taking screws out to take the cowl off of your MRP Bud Light Tunnel Hull? A 3" Piece of 1/8" dia K&S brass tubing, cross drilled with holes big enough for R/C Car body clips, can be used to remedy the situation. Simply drill out the existing holes in the cowl and transom to fit the tubing, then epoxy the tubing in place, leaving the holes exposed. This will give you access to your batteries in seconds, without having to worry about losing screws in the beach sand.

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Plastic Garden » RC Boats

Octura Catalog

How was it done

OCTURA is a Registered Trademark of Octura Models, Inc., Skokie, Illinois, USA.

FLEX HEX FOR CONNECTING SQUARED END FLEX CABLE to threaded motor output shaft

24"PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS WITH ONE SQUARED END

18" PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS WITH ONE SQUARED END

36"PRECUT CABLE LENGTHS WITH BOTH ENDS SQUARED

BULK FLEXIBLE CABLE AND FLEXIBLE TEFLON TUBING IN 20′ PACKAGES

FLEX FERRULE – FOR CONNECTING FLEXIBLE SHAFT TO PROPELLER SHAFT (IN BRASS)

OCFH FLEX HEX – FOR COUPLING FLEXIBLE SHAFT TO THREADED ENGINE CRANKSHAFT

OCFHE FLEX HEX FOR COUPLING FLEXIBLE SHAFT TO ELECTRIC MOTOR OUTPUT SHAFT, smooth bore with set screw at motor end

TWIN 60 MOTOR MOUNTS (8 motor mounting screws included)

Traxxas Nitro V

The fun part…

What we know after 24 (yes, that’s twenty four) hours of running time

And now the problems…

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

The first 3 days

And it was…

Tips

Substitute the cooling system tubing

Change the propeller

Change the turning fin (if you want that little extra speed)

Review

I like

What I didn’t like after running it…

Present config.

Prestwich Targa

The Targa in all it’s splendor

Building

Trinity D3, 17 Turn Triple

Trinity Speed Gems Quartz, 19 Turn Double

Running

Day 1 (02-05-1998)

Day 2 (09-05-1998)

Day 3 (10-05-1998)

Review

Present config.

Dumas Hot Shot Sprint 3.5

A cat with an attitude

Running

Day 1 (27-12-1997)

Day 2

Day 3 (24-2-1998)

Review

Present configuration

Kyosho Heatwave

Inboard engine catamaran

Tips

Get rid of the original propeller!

How can you use 3/16" propellers?

How to avoid problems with the motor mount?

Prepare to substitute the plastic tank mount.

Substitute the bushings for ball bearings.

Be careful with the clearance of the thrust bearings on the shaft!

Running

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3 (15-Nov-97)

Day 4 (22-Nov-97)

Day 5 (7-Dec-97)

Present config.

Review

I like

I don’t like

MRP Bud Light

Running

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 5

Day 6

June 97

The batteries

Present config.

Review

I like